MARCH 6th, DAY THREE *pictures will be added later
After writing my last post I was able to get an hour of peaceful sleep. I left the net cafe by 7am, pleasantly refreshed by the bright morning sky (compared to the dull and dark cave I had slept in).
I started making my way back to Route 1. On the way I did find another 24 hour net cafe called the Hours. It didn't appear in my Google search, so I thought there was only one option in Hiratsuka - one whose website wasn't working. I was stressed a bit because of the possibility that I wouldn't have a place to stay, and lo and behold there was another option. Strike two Google Maps.
When I left the city it was a little sunny, but clouds were already creeping in. I stopped on the way at a Lawson to get breakfast. This time I tried out their low carb bran pancakes. I was surprised to think that they were too sweet, but they were made with agave syrup, and had some more syrup and whip cream or something between them. It was a nice treat, since I had been craving pancakes for a long time.
The rain was light and misty for the next few hours. My route took me near the ocean, which I kept looking at longingly between the houses until I crossed a narrow stairwell down to the beach. It was a good time for a break, I figured, so I took a minor detour and went down to the beach around 10am. Despite the light rain and wind, being near the ocean was very calming. Before I knew it 45 minutes had passed of me just staring at the waves. The rain had also let up at this point so I thought it was going to be a good day. I had only 4 more ours or so to my destination, a guesthouse in Hakone, and it wasn't even noon yet.
Unfortunately, after I left the beach, things steadily got harder. The rain began to fall steadily, not large heavy drops, but a constant blanket of light rain. I took another break at noon for lunch, hoping that the KFC would have grilled chicken, but to my disappointment they only had their original recipe fried chicken. Not the best for this low carb, healthy fat lifestyle I'm trying to commit to, but at least it would be some good protein and I could rest my legs.
I forgot to mention on my way to KFC I saw another possible Tokaido walker on the opposite side of the road; it was a man, possibly in his 40s or 50s, heading in the same direction as I. He seemed tired from going up the incline, but my legs were still fresh at the time and I overtook him. I noticed he kept glancing at me, but when I looked back he would turn away, so we never made contact. Oh well, if we are meant to meet, then we will.
I managed to stick around KFC for almost an hour. The rain wouldn't let up, so I decided to try out the plastic shoe covers that I had bought from Donkihote. It took some getting used to, but I adjusted to the feel of the rubber bands around my legs and the slightly drag of the plastic, then I was well on my way. I also covered my bag in its waterproof cover and put on my cap and hood. I didn't take out the poncho this time.
The rain continued, falling harder as the route began to incline up towards Hakone. I was grateful that it was only a slight incline most of the way, but I had a strong notion that I was in for a long walk. Usually I enjoy the rain, but having to walk in it with 20lbs on my back, essentially up a mountain, was not preferable. Also, the approach was not very well defined in several parts. Route 1 became unwalkable, but the way to the walking route wasn't easy to find. Just unneccessary added stress.
Somehow I managed to stay on the right path (here I will thank Google) and I entered the Hakone area around 4pm. Perfect timing because the guesthouse check-in was available from that time. I remember thinking that everything seemed closer on the map, but maybe it just felt longer because it was all uphill. In any case, I grabbed a few grocery items from the 7i convenience store on the way up the mountain, including eggs, 2L of water, and some peppered beef strips. Slightly drenched I arrived at Guesthouse Azito at just after 4pm.
Let me give a shout out to the staff at Guesthouse Azito for being awesome and kind. The place had a very nice atmosphere and instead of a shared room, the rooms were private - just a bed and a little space, but private nonetheless. I wasted no time in dumping all my stuff in my room and claiming it as my own for the next half a day.
It was still only the early evening, but it was a rainy day, so instead of walking around the area (which was really beautiful, but I had already walked ALOT anyway) I I took a shower, hung up my only slightly wet clothes (yay water proof/quick dry stuff!) and cooked my dinner. No other guests were around, so I privately ate up my salad with avocado, eggs, peppered beef and cheese, and then I went to bed.
[+26.5km = 89.5kilometers total]
MARCH 7th, DAY FOUR
I slept from 7pm until about 5am. No regrets. I wanted to start my day early because I knew it would be about a 7 hour walk to my next destination in Numazu. Before anyone else was awake, I quickly slipped out and headed to the nearest convenience store (only 3 in the area from what I saw, and no supermarkets). This time it was Family Mart. I knew they had some kind of low carb stuff, which I had never tried before, so I sought them out.
Rizap has released many low sugar products, oddly enough mostly sweets. I wanted yogurt but settled for trying their cheese cake, and also grabbed aWalnut Roll. Of course, the cheese cake had artificial sweeteners and wasn't as low carb as I was aiming for, but I figured I'm in for a long walk, so it wouldn't hurt. Nevertheless it was sweet - no surprise there. I'm glad to say that I have not been craving sweets since I changed my eating habits, but I feel that it's good to have the options available, if and when I just want a treat. The Walnut Roll was delicious, perfect, I would definitely get that again.
Enough about food! Haha. Back to the grind.
As I'm writing this, I am starting to feel tired again just from the thought... It was a LONG day. As soon as I left the guesthouse I noticed that the path was going up hill. Everytime I thought it would level out or start to go down, I turned the corner and there was another incline.
For the most part, the route along 732 is actually ON the road, as in on the edge where there is a "designated walking space". It is NOT enough space. There is literally a white line on the edge of the road, and half the time foliage has taken it over. That goes on for long enough to where you start to think any sort of real designated walking area is better than feeling like you shouldn't be walking on the road with (occasional) cars going by.
This area of Hakone is also one of the locations where the Old Tokaido Route has been preserved or reconstructed. For the record, it's literally a hike through the mountains. You are either climbing up an uneven stone path, which I enjoy because it's a little more interesting, or you are going up several flights of stairs, which I did not enjoy. There are also a couple river crossings that will have you think "This is awesome, but am I supposed to be here??"
Climbing the mountain was rough for me. My brain made sure to remind me off the weight on my back, the strain in my legs and the slightest change in body temperature. It was mentally draining more than anything.
However, on the road I happened to meet an old man heading in the opposite direction of me. He too was walking the Tokaido, though he had started in Kyoto. He seemed to be pressing on well, and when I asked how long he had been walking he said about 16 days. 16?! That was faster than I expected. But he was also staying in business hotels for about 5000 yen a night, which I'm sure is a big comfort. We wished each other luck on the remainder of our trips. That meeting was just the bit of push I needed to will myself up the mountain: if an old man can do it, so can I.
If and when you survive the hike up the mountain, don't expect much of a view. The trail eventually descends a bit and takes you to the shores of Lake Ashi. The little resort area was booming with people despite the chilly weather.
And it was cold. I was hot and cold and everything in between while going up the mountain so I ended up with my jacket around my waist, long undershirt and tshirt, and a full set of knit cap, neck warmer and mittens... and sunglasses. Other people were not so well-dressed - I questioned what kind of humans they were, but apparantely I am the odd one out.
I walked along the shore of the lake looking for a place to have lunch, but nearly every shop was either selling soba noodles, or curry and rice. I was about to settle for karage (fried chicken) when I saw a 7i at the end of the road. You may be wondering why I am not enjoying the "local" cuisine or going into restaurants more and there's two obvious reasons for that: 1) to save money, and 2) low carb means no bread, rice, noodles, sweets, etc. for the most part. Besides, I live in Japan, if I really want something, I can get it almost anywhere.
So, I bought my lunch from 7i, ate it in the waiting room for the boat rides because it was too cold for me to eat outside, and then with nothing else to do continued along the path. I really hoped that it would continue to decline, but nope, not yet. There were a few more hills, up and down, roads with no sidewalks, unclear signs which route to take, I lost my knit cap and hairband too - stress stress stress - but FINALLY signs for Mishima City meant I was really getting out of the mountains.
I have never been happier to walk into the outer limits of a city. Civilization! Sidewalks! Marked streets! How lucky we are.
The walk through Mishima, though welcome as it was easy to follow, was still a good two hours or so from my destination in Numazu. On the way I stopped at Coco's, which is like a steak house that I have never been to before, and had some beef hamburger steak.
After dinner and a quick rest, I made the final push to Numazu. To my surprise there was a SEIYU (Japan's Walmart, literally) and grabbed a few groceries. It was mostly cheese, some marked down spinach and a couple avocados. My lodgings for the night were at Media Cafe POPEYE in Numazu. Since my legs were so tired, and I DID climb a mountain and all, I chose the 12 hour night pack in the massage chair booth.
It wasn't easy to sleep in the chair that couldn't fully recline, but I managed to sleep quite a bit. I think the massaging helped with that. In more than one way I hoped that was the last mountain I had to climb this trip.
[+34.3km = 123.8 kilometers total]
ON TO DAY FIVE & SIX!! >>>>
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