MARCH 8th
Day Five. Today was going to be a short day, since only had to walk about 20 kilometers to reach my daily goal. I was going to stay at another guesthouse, this time near Mt. Fuji. When planning this trip I was surprised how few guesthouses were available on this route, especially when it seems like there are many people who travel this way. I think a lot of people would benefit if they started a guesthouse chain/series that runs along the Tokaido Route. General markers along the trail would also be very welcome.
So, once again, my day out was going to be relatively short. My entire walk from Numazu to Fuji City was marked with Mt. Fuji watching over me. I took my time, and even took a small detour to go stare at the ocean again, so I was having a very good, chill day.
I was actually relieved that there was little walking today because my legs were still sore from the hike. Above all, the back of my calves, right below my knees were so tight. My shoulders were a bit sore as well, and even though there wasn't anything extra in my bag, everything just felt heavy.
My guesthouse for the day was NASUBI Mt. Fuji Backpackers. I arrived around 4pm after stopping to grab groceries at MaxValu because I wanted to cook my meals. Oh man, I am missing on eating food regularly. Food that I make.
I was the only guest at the guesthouse when I arrived, but I learned that I was sharing my room with three other people: it was a 6-bed dormitory, two other guests were from Switzerland, and one from Japan.
With the run of the house to myself I decided to do everything, literally. First I jumped in the shower, and then I threw my clothes in the laundry (washer and dryer for only 400 yen! better than a coin laundry which I was thinking of visiting!) and while the clothes were washing I cooked myself some salmon and ate dinner. While I was eating dinner one of the other guests returned. He was a 50-year old Japanese man who was traveling around taking pictures, so he had gone out to take photos of Mt. Fuji. I talked with him and the guesthouse managers (a lovely couple, they were so chill!!) until they started to make their own dinner. I considered going to bed early because the next day I would have t walk another 7 hours, but fate had something different in mind.
That night a friend of the guesthouse manager's came to visit. He was studying traditional Japanese massage techniques, and had also studied physical therapy. My first thought was "Oh, I could really use a massage..." I actually would like to study massage and/or physical therapy one day because I know many people who I could help with it. While the man treated the Japanese guest, I watched intently and learned alot about his studies. He offered to massage me next, which I was simultaneously gracious for, but also resistant because I KNEW how tight my body was and that it was going to hurt. But eventually I couldn't turn down the offer.
And I'm glad I didn't! The traditional Japanese massage techniques really tapped into muscles and nerve points that I did not know existed, particularly in my neck and shoulders and my head!! It was impossible to completely loosen my shoulders up, but the massage made a considerable difference. After that we ended up talking until after 11 pm about studying massage and his business (so much for sleeping early haha). I can easily say today was the best day since I left Yokohama! Too bad it's my last guesthouse for a while...
[+20.4km = 144.2 kilometers total]
MARCH 9th
Oh boy.
Day six... from the best day, to what turned out to be the most... not worst, but very difficult day.
My day started early. I wanted to leave the guesthouse by 8am because it was going to be a long walk to Shizuoka City. I made and ate my delicious fried egg breakfast before anyone else was awake (except the Japanese guest who stepped out early to take more pictures). My shoulders were feeling much better from the massage, but I could still feel strain in my calf muscles. I was assuming that it was because I needed to drink more water.
Slowly the day began to bring on the challenges. First, the drawstring on my pants was half-retracted into the waistline when I did my laundry. I spent a good 15 minutes or so restring them using a safety pin which I was smart enough to bring along. My head felt strangely calm, as if it knew it was going t be a long day.
I didn't get out of the guesthouse until about 8:40. The guesthouse manager gave me two snacks"for emergency" - they were sweets, and I wanted to turn them down, but I just didn't have the spirit to refuse them. I was determined not to eat them, but I didn't know what I would do with them.
The first couple of hours went well and I was making good time on my walk. As I was walking I could still feel the strain in my calves. My plan was to get a 2L of water and make sure I wasn't dehydrated, but another thought occured to me. Maybe the muscles weren't able to heal fully because I was lacking electrolytes and needed a carb load.
I couldn't reason myself out of it once my brain decided that's what I needed to do. So at lunch I ate tuna with mayo, an avocado and some cheese which I had bought the day before at MaxValu. I had the two little treats as well. Kept walking, ended up going up a mountain again because Route 1 wasn't walkable, and a couple hours later I finally bought my 2L of water... and that custard cookie ice cream.
More walking, then some orange juice and peanuts after a bathroom run at Seven Eleven. Finally, a 'low sugar/carb' piece of chocolate cake by Rizap. It was one of those days where it's like "well, I already ate XX so I might as well eat YY today too and get the craving out of the way". I also had a little ice cream at the net cafe because it was free (I had a feeling when I checked in that I would end up on the floor with the ice cream machine). Soo yeah it was a HIGH carb day, but I figured that it would be good to see how it affects me the next day. Just praying that I don't feel horrible cause I still got to walk!!
By the way, I stayed at Kaikatsu Club just outside Shizuoka City. It was AMAZING. Special ladies only area, yes free ice cream, and a very good price. Who needs hotels? haha
[+35.1km = 179.3 kilometers total]
ON TO DAYS SEVEN, EIGHT, AND NINE >>>>
Showing posts with label adventure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adventure. Show all posts
Sunday, March 12, 2017
Friday, March 10, 2017
Walking The TOKAIDO Days 3 & 4
MARCH 6th, DAY THREE *pictures will be added later
After writing my last post I was able to get an hour of peaceful sleep. I left the net cafe by 7am, pleasantly refreshed by the bright morning sky (compared to the dull and dark cave I had slept in).
I started making my way back to Route 1. On the way I did find another 24 hour net cafe called the Hours. It didn't appear in my Google search, so I thought there was only one option in Hiratsuka - one whose website wasn't working. I was stressed a bit because of the possibility that I wouldn't have a place to stay, and lo and behold there was another option. Strike two Google Maps.
When I left the city it was a little sunny, but clouds were already creeping in. I stopped on the way at a Lawson to get breakfast. This time I tried out their low carb bran pancakes. I was surprised to think that they were too sweet, but they were made with agave syrup, and had some more syrup and whip cream or something between them. It was a nice treat, since I had been craving pancakes for a long time.
The rain was light and misty for the next few hours. My route took me near the ocean, which I kept looking at longingly between the houses until I crossed a narrow stairwell down to the beach. It was a good time for a break, I figured, so I took a minor detour and went down to the beach around 10am. Despite the light rain and wind, being near the ocean was very calming. Before I knew it 45 minutes had passed of me just staring at the waves. The rain had also let up at this point so I thought it was going to be a good day. I had only 4 more ours or so to my destination, a guesthouse in Hakone, and it wasn't even noon yet.
Unfortunately, after I left the beach, things steadily got harder. The rain began to fall steadily, not large heavy drops, but a constant blanket of light rain. I took another break at noon for lunch, hoping that the KFC would have grilled chicken, but to my disappointment they only had their original recipe fried chicken. Not the best for this low carb, healthy fat lifestyle I'm trying to commit to, but at least it would be some good protein and I could rest my legs.
I forgot to mention on my way to KFC I saw another possible Tokaido walker on the opposite side of the road; it was a man, possibly in his 40s or 50s, heading in the same direction as I. He seemed tired from going up the incline, but my legs were still fresh at the time and I overtook him. I noticed he kept glancing at me, but when I looked back he would turn away, so we never made contact. Oh well, if we are meant to meet, then we will.
I managed to stick around KFC for almost an hour. The rain wouldn't let up, so I decided to try out the plastic shoe covers that I had bought from Donkihote. It took some getting used to, but I adjusted to the feel of the rubber bands around my legs and the slightly drag of the plastic, then I was well on my way. I also covered my bag in its waterproof cover and put on my cap and hood. I didn't take out the poncho this time.
The rain continued, falling harder as the route began to incline up towards Hakone. I was grateful that it was only a slight incline most of the way, but I had a strong notion that I was in for a long walk. Usually I enjoy the rain, but having to walk in it with 20lbs on my back, essentially up a mountain, was not preferable. Also, the approach was not very well defined in several parts. Route 1 became unwalkable, but the way to the walking route wasn't easy to find. Just unneccessary added stress.
Somehow I managed to stay on the right path (here I will thank Google) and I entered the Hakone area around 4pm. Perfect timing because the guesthouse check-in was available from that time. I remember thinking that everything seemed closer on the map, but maybe it just felt longer because it was all uphill. In any case, I grabbed a few grocery items from the 7i convenience store on the way up the mountain, including eggs, 2L of water, and some peppered beef strips. Slightly drenched I arrived at Guesthouse Azito at just after 4pm.
Let me give a shout out to the staff at Guesthouse Azito for being awesome and kind. The place had a very nice atmosphere and instead of a shared room, the rooms were private - just a bed and a little space, but private nonetheless. I wasted no time in dumping all my stuff in my room and claiming it as my own for the next half a day.
It was still only the early evening, but it was a rainy day, so instead of walking around the area (which was really beautiful, but I had already walked ALOT anyway) I I took a shower, hung up my only slightly wet clothes (yay water proof/quick dry stuff!) and cooked my dinner. No other guests were around, so I privately ate up my salad with avocado, eggs, peppered beef and cheese, and then I went to bed.
[+26.5km = 89.5kilometers total]
MARCH 7th, DAY FOUR
I slept from 7pm until about 5am. No regrets. I wanted to start my day early because I knew it would be about a 7 hour walk to my next destination in Numazu. Before anyone else was awake, I quickly slipped out and headed to the nearest convenience store (only 3 in the area from what I saw, and no supermarkets). This time it was Family Mart. I knew they had some kind of low carb stuff, which I had never tried before, so I sought them out.
Rizap has released many low sugar products, oddly enough mostly sweets. I wanted yogurt but settled for trying their cheese cake, and also grabbed aWalnut Roll. Of course, the cheese cake had artificial sweeteners and wasn't as low carb as I was aiming for, but I figured I'm in for a long walk, so it wouldn't hurt. Nevertheless it was sweet - no surprise there. I'm glad to say that I have not been craving sweets since I changed my eating habits, but I feel that it's good to have the options available, if and when I just want a treat. The Walnut Roll was delicious, perfect, I would definitely get that again.
Enough about food! Haha. Back to the grind.
As I'm writing this, I am starting to feel tired again just from the thought... It was a LONG day. As soon as I left the guesthouse I noticed that the path was going up hill. Everytime I thought it would level out or start to go down, I turned the corner and there was another incline.
For the most part, the route along 732 is actually ON the road, as in on the edge where there is a "designated walking space". It is NOT enough space. There is literally a white line on the edge of the road, and half the time foliage has taken it over. That goes on for long enough to where you start to think any sort of real designated walking area is better than feeling like you shouldn't be walking on the road with (occasional) cars going by.
This area of Hakone is also one of the locations where the Old Tokaido Route has been preserved or reconstructed. For the record, it's literally a hike through the mountains. You are either climbing up an uneven stone path, which I enjoy because it's a little more interesting, or you are going up several flights of stairs, which I did not enjoy. There are also a couple river crossings that will have you think "This is awesome, but am I supposed to be here??"
Climbing the mountain was rough for me. My brain made sure to remind me off the weight on my back, the strain in my legs and the slightest change in body temperature. It was mentally draining more than anything.
However, on the road I happened to meet an old man heading in the opposite direction of me. He too was walking the Tokaido, though he had started in Kyoto. He seemed to be pressing on well, and when I asked how long he had been walking he said about 16 days. 16?! That was faster than I expected. But he was also staying in business hotels for about 5000 yen a night, which I'm sure is a big comfort. We wished each other luck on the remainder of our trips. That meeting was just the bit of push I needed to will myself up the mountain: if an old man can do it, so can I.
If and when you survive the hike up the mountain, don't expect much of a view. The trail eventually descends a bit and takes you to the shores of Lake Ashi. The little resort area was booming with people despite the chilly weather.
And it was cold. I was hot and cold and everything in between while going up the mountain so I ended up with my jacket around my waist, long undershirt and tshirt, and a full set of knit cap, neck warmer and mittens... and sunglasses. Other people were not so well-dressed - I questioned what kind of humans they were, but apparantely I am the odd one out.
I walked along the shore of the lake looking for a place to have lunch, but nearly every shop was either selling soba noodles, or curry and rice. I was about to settle for karage (fried chicken) when I saw a 7i at the end of the road. You may be wondering why I am not enjoying the "local" cuisine or going into restaurants more and there's two obvious reasons for that: 1) to save money, and 2) low carb means no bread, rice, noodles, sweets, etc. for the most part. Besides, I live in Japan, if I really want something, I can get it almost anywhere.
So, I bought my lunch from 7i, ate it in the waiting room for the boat rides because it was too cold for me to eat outside, and then with nothing else to do continued along the path. I really hoped that it would continue to decline, but nope, not yet. There were a few more hills, up and down, roads with no sidewalks, unclear signs which route to take, I lost my knit cap and hairband too - stress stress stress - but FINALLY signs for Mishima City meant I was really getting out of the mountains.
I have never been happier to walk into the outer limits of a city. Civilization! Sidewalks! Marked streets! How lucky we are.
The walk through Mishima, though welcome as it was easy to follow, was still a good two hours or so from my destination in Numazu. On the way I stopped at Coco's, which is like a steak house that I have never been to before, and had some beef hamburger steak.
After dinner and a quick rest, I made the final push to Numazu. To my surprise there was a SEIYU (Japan's Walmart, literally) and grabbed a few groceries. It was mostly cheese, some marked down spinach and a couple avocados. My lodgings for the night were at Media Cafe POPEYE in Numazu. Since my legs were so tired, and I DID climb a mountain and all, I chose the 12 hour night pack in the massage chair booth.
It wasn't easy to sleep in the chair that couldn't fully recline, but I managed to sleep quite a bit. I think the massaging helped with that. In more than one way I hoped that was the last mountain I had to climb this trip.
[+34.3km = 123.8 kilometers total]
ON TO DAY FIVE & SIX!! >>>>
After writing my last post I was able to get an hour of peaceful sleep. I left the net cafe by 7am, pleasantly refreshed by the bright morning sky (compared to the dull and dark cave I had slept in).
I started making my way back to Route 1. On the way I did find another 24 hour net cafe called the Hours. It didn't appear in my Google search, so I thought there was only one option in Hiratsuka - one whose website wasn't working. I was stressed a bit because of the possibility that I wouldn't have a place to stay, and lo and behold there was another option. Strike two Google Maps.
When I left the city it was a little sunny, but clouds were already creeping in. I stopped on the way at a Lawson to get breakfast. This time I tried out their low carb bran pancakes. I was surprised to think that they were too sweet, but they were made with agave syrup, and had some more syrup and whip cream or something between them. It was a nice treat, since I had been craving pancakes for a long time.
The rain was light and misty for the next few hours. My route took me near the ocean, which I kept looking at longingly between the houses until I crossed a narrow stairwell down to the beach. It was a good time for a break, I figured, so I took a minor detour and went down to the beach around 10am. Despite the light rain and wind, being near the ocean was very calming. Before I knew it 45 minutes had passed of me just staring at the waves. The rain had also let up at this point so I thought it was going to be a good day. I had only 4 more ours or so to my destination, a guesthouse in Hakone, and it wasn't even noon yet.
Unfortunately, after I left the beach, things steadily got harder. The rain began to fall steadily, not large heavy drops, but a constant blanket of light rain. I took another break at noon for lunch, hoping that the KFC would have grilled chicken, but to my disappointment they only had their original recipe fried chicken. Not the best for this low carb, healthy fat lifestyle I'm trying to commit to, but at least it would be some good protein and I could rest my legs.
I forgot to mention on my way to KFC I saw another possible Tokaido walker on the opposite side of the road; it was a man, possibly in his 40s or 50s, heading in the same direction as I. He seemed tired from going up the incline, but my legs were still fresh at the time and I overtook him. I noticed he kept glancing at me, but when I looked back he would turn away, so we never made contact. Oh well, if we are meant to meet, then we will.
I managed to stick around KFC for almost an hour. The rain wouldn't let up, so I decided to try out the plastic shoe covers that I had bought from Donkihote. It took some getting used to, but I adjusted to the feel of the rubber bands around my legs and the slightly drag of the plastic, then I was well on my way. I also covered my bag in its waterproof cover and put on my cap and hood. I didn't take out the poncho this time.
The rain continued, falling harder as the route began to incline up towards Hakone. I was grateful that it was only a slight incline most of the way, but I had a strong notion that I was in for a long walk. Usually I enjoy the rain, but having to walk in it with 20lbs on my back, essentially up a mountain, was not preferable. Also, the approach was not very well defined in several parts. Route 1 became unwalkable, but the way to the walking route wasn't easy to find. Just unneccessary added stress.
Somehow I managed to stay on the right path (here I will thank Google) and I entered the Hakone area around 4pm. Perfect timing because the guesthouse check-in was available from that time. I remember thinking that everything seemed closer on the map, but maybe it just felt longer because it was all uphill. In any case, I grabbed a few grocery items from the 7i convenience store on the way up the mountain, including eggs, 2L of water, and some peppered beef strips. Slightly drenched I arrived at Guesthouse Azito at just after 4pm.
Let me give a shout out to the staff at Guesthouse Azito for being awesome and kind. The place had a very nice atmosphere and instead of a shared room, the rooms were private - just a bed and a little space, but private nonetheless. I wasted no time in dumping all my stuff in my room and claiming it as my own for the next half a day.
It was still only the early evening, but it was a rainy day, so instead of walking around the area (which was really beautiful, but I had already walked ALOT anyway) I I took a shower, hung up my only slightly wet clothes (yay water proof/quick dry stuff!) and cooked my dinner. No other guests were around, so I privately ate up my salad with avocado, eggs, peppered beef and cheese, and then I went to bed.
[+26.5km = 89.5kilometers total]
MARCH 7th, DAY FOUR
I slept from 7pm until about 5am. No regrets. I wanted to start my day early because I knew it would be about a 7 hour walk to my next destination in Numazu. Before anyone else was awake, I quickly slipped out and headed to the nearest convenience store (only 3 in the area from what I saw, and no supermarkets). This time it was Family Mart. I knew they had some kind of low carb stuff, which I had never tried before, so I sought them out.
Rizap has released many low sugar products, oddly enough mostly sweets. I wanted yogurt but settled for trying their cheese cake, and also grabbed aWalnut Roll. Of course, the cheese cake had artificial sweeteners and wasn't as low carb as I was aiming for, but I figured I'm in for a long walk, so it wouldn't hurt. Nevertheless it was sweet - no surprise there. I'm glad to say that I have not been craving sweets since I changed my eating habits, but I feel that it's good to have the options available, if and when I just want a treat. The Walnut Roll was delicious, perfect, I would definitely get that again.
Enough about food! Haha. Back to the grind.
As I'm writing this, I am starting to feel tired again just from the thought... It was a LONG day. As soon as I left the guesthouse I noticed that the path was going up hill. Everytime I thought it would level out or start to go down, I turned the corner and there was another incline.
For the most part, the route along 732 is actually ON the road, as in on the edge where there is a "designated walking space". It is NOT enough space. There is literally a white line on the edge of the road, and half the time foliage has taken it over. That goes on for long enough to where you start to think any sort of real designated walking area is better than feeling like you shouldn't be walking on the road with (occasional) cars going by.
This area of Hakone is also one of the locations where the Old Tokaido Route has been preserved or reconstructed. For the record, it's literally a hike through the mountains. You are either climbing up an uneven stone path, which I enjoy because it's a little more interesting, or you are going up several flights of stairs, which I did not enjoy. There are also a couple river crossings that will have you think "This is awesome, but am I supposed to be here??"
Climbing the mountain was rough for me. My brain made sure to remind me off the weight on my back, the strain in my legs and the slightest change in body temperature. It was mentally draining more than anything.
However, on the road I happened to meet an old man heading in the opposite direction of me. He too was walking the Tokaido, though he had started in Kyoto. He seemed to be pressing on well, and when I asked how long he had been walking he said about 16 days. 16?! That was faster than I expected. But he was also staying in business hotels for about 5000 yen a night, which I'm sure is a big comfort. We wished each other luck on the remainder of our trips. That meeting was just the bit of push I needed to will myself up the mountain: if an old man can do it, so can I.
If and when you survive the hike up the mountain, don't expect much of a view. The trail eventually descends a bit and takes you to the shores of Lake Ashi. The little resort area was booming with people despite the chilly weather.
And it was cold. I was hot and cold and everything in between while going up the mountain so I ended up with my jacket around my waist, long undershirt and tshirt, and a full set of knit cap, neck warmer and mittens... and sunglasses. Other people were not so well-dressed - I questioned what kind of humans they were, but apparantely I am the odd one out.
I walked along the shore of the lake looking for a place to have lunch, but nearly every shop was either selling soba noodles, or curry and rice. I was about to settle for karage (fried chicken) when I saw a 7i at the end of the road. You may be wondering why I am not enjoying the "local" cuisine or going into restaurants more and there's two obvious reasons for that: 1) to save money, and 2) low carb means no bread, rice, noodles, sweets, etc. for the most part. Besides, I live in Japan, if I really want something, I can get it almost anywhere.
So, I bought my lunch from 7i, ate it in the waiting room for the boat rides because it was too cold for me to eat outside, and then with nothing else to do continued along the path. I really hoped that it would continue to decline, but nope, not yet. There were a few more hills, up and down, roads with no sidewalks, unclear signs which route to take, I lost my knit cap and hairband too - stress stress stress - but FINALLY signs for Mishima City meant I was really getting out of the mountains.
I have never been happier to walk into the outer limits of a city. Civilization! Sidewalks! Marked streets! How lucky we are.
The walk through Mishima, though welcome as it was easy to follow, was still a good two hours or so from my destination in Numazu. On the way I stopped at Coco's, which is like a steak house that I have never been to before, and had some beef hamburger steak.
After dinner and a quick rest, I made the final push to Numazu. To my surprise there was a SEIYU (Japan's Walmart, literally) and grabbed a few groceries. It was mostly cheese, some marked down spinach and a couple avocados. My lodgings for the night were at Media Cafe POPEYE in Numazu. Since my legs were so tired, and I DID climb a mountain and all, I chose the 12 hour night pack in the massage chair booth.
It wasn't easy to sleep in the chair that couldn't fully recline, but I managed to sleep quite a bit. I think the massaging helped with that. In more than one way I hoped that was the last mountain I had to climb this trip.
[+34.3km = 123.8 kilometers total]
ON TO DAY FIVE & SIX!! >>>>
Sunday, March 5, 2017
Walking The TOKAIDO Days 0, 1 & 2
Well, so much for falling asleep. I guess I will take this opportunity to catch you all up on how my time has been so far.
****I WILL ADD PICTURES LATER I PROMISE****
It's been 2 days since I left Nagoya.
FRIDAY, MARCH 3rd, DAY ZERO
I caught a bus from Nagoya Station to Tokyo. That morning I went to my student's graduation. To be honest during most of the ceremony I kept spacing out and running over the day's plans in my head. One thing did stick out to me however. In the student representative's "Thank you" message they said something like this:
"I know there will be good times and hard times. But in those hard times, instead of saying "I'm tired" I think we should say "Look how far I've come / Look how much I've done.""
At the start of what I knew to be a tiring trip, I really took those words to heart.
**
The bus took about 6.5 hours from Nagoya to Kawasaki, via Tokyo. It did stop in Shinjuku, but I had plans to stay with my friend in Yokohama (just south of the Tokyo Metropolitan), so Kawasaki was the closest I could go by bus. Normally, I enjoy bus trips, but normally I am only on the bus for 3 hours. You can guess how happy I was to get off at my destination.
My friend came to meet me at the station and we went back to the apartment he shares with his girlfriend. I was in for my first surprise. He lives UP on a hill. There was a hundred stairs to climb (it seemed). First the bus, now this trek up a small mountain... my mind was telling me all kinds of trouble must be coming.
The reality that I was doing this trip still hadn't set in however. I was just hanging out at my friends house. Nothing challenging yet.
**
MARCH 4th, DAY ONE, 7:20 a.m.
The alarm on my watch didn't go off. I was getting started an hour later than I had planned - but in reality, I probably would have woken up an hour too early. I quickly ate breakfast (2 eggs and some cheese), packed up my bag, and told my friend that I would be back around 6 or 7 p.m.
I caught the train from Yokohama Station and rode it into Tokyo. The official start of my trip would be at NIHOMBASHI.
But first, a coffee.
Many of you reading this know that I don't usually drink coffee, and I generally tend to avoid cafes. The only reason I chose to go was because I was going to meet a friend from university who I haven't seen in almost 2 years. She now lives and works in Tokyo, so it was a perfect chance to meet again.
After our meeting, she walked with me to Nihombashi. This was it. It was actually starting!!
But first, let me take a selfie (haha).
Now with full spirits and a good picture to mark the moment, I took my first step on my journey.
Walking of course came naturally. This is what I had been training over 2 months for. I kept my eyes open for markers of the Old Tokaido trail, but there was little of interest to me in those first hours - just buildings, people, streets.... you know, a city. Thankfully, sightseeing is NOT the purpose of this trip!
**
3 hours from Nihombashi I made a stop in Kamata to meet another friend who I hadn't seen in almost 2.5 years! We had hung out a lot while I was an exchange student, so we were very close. It was just like old times.
He also bought me lunch: Freshness Burger's Avocado Burger, without the bun. Thank you~
We talked for over an hour and I was feeling rejuvenated. 3 more hours to go and I would be back in Yokohama. I realized how lucky I was that my first day went so well. The weather was great, not too hot and with a slight breeze. I had the chance to reunite with my friends. And free food. That always makes for a good day.
Eventually I reached my friend's apartment in Yokohama. His girlfriend made gyoza (meat dumplings, mine were chicken) for dinner, which I had no guilt in eating after the 6-7 hour walk. We played a couple rounds of Jenga and then went to bed around 11 pm.
I'm glad it was a good day, but I also knew that my journey had only just begun. If I was taking the ring to Mordor, day one would be the start of the journey where we are all still innocent and having fun... before the orcs attack us.
Starting tomorrow, I'm alone.
[30 kilometers]
**
MARCH 5th, DAY TWO, 7 am
Two more eggs for breakfast. I am going to miss being able to cook my food.
I have two possible destinations today, either Chigasaki or Hiratsuka. Hiratsuka is slightly farther of the two, and I preferred to go there because it would make my walk on the 6th an hour shorter. Either way, I was planning to spend the night at a net cafe.
Just before I left from Yokohama, another friend of mine stopped in to take my place at the apartment haha. The three of them sent me off with well wishes, and day two began.
I was taking Route 1 from Yokohama and finally seeing markers of the Old Tokaido road. On my way down from Tokyo I stayed on Route 15, so I only had markers which told me how far I had walked from Nihombashi. I took a few pictures of the trail markers, but as I mentioned before, I'm not doing this to sight-see.
About 2 hours in to my walk I spotted a pair of backpackers ahead of me. I suspected they were walking the Tokaido as well (not alone after all!) However, they made a stop at a convenient store, while I still wanted to continue walking. If they were really on this road for the long haul, we would probably run into each other again, I thought, so I kept on my way.
Initially, I had marked a restaurant on my map to rest at. Every 2 hours or so I plan to rest my legs and shoulders, and maybe eat something too. My luck was good. There was a small department / supermarket in Totsuka on the way. I stopped in with the intention to buy some food and then eat it at a nearby park, but I noticed they had a small sitting area which we could use freely. Don't mind if I do. Second breakfast was green tea, a small salad, and bran rolls with butter.
I was feeling good and confident about my plans and training thus far. My legs were sound, and even my shoulders were adjusting to the weight of my bag (8-9kg, or about 18 lbs). The weather was actually warmer than I had been expecting, but thankfully I planned for that too. Also, I could take breaks on my own time, and eat what and when I wanted - freedom!
It was during my second short break at a Lawson that I spotted the two backpackers from earlier. Yup, they were walking the trail. Time to make my day a little more interesting. The hunt was on. I quickly jumped back on the trail and followed after them.
If I caught up, I would say something... well, I did catch up because they stopped at the bottom of a hill to rest a bit. I sort of awkwardly said "Hey" as I drew closer and confirmed my suspicions. They were indeed walking the Tokaido route, but only to Kyoto. The pair of them were also planning to stop at a hotel in Hiratsuka that night. Maybe I am a little competitive, but that set my mind to going as far as Hiratsuka as well.
Figuring we would run into each other again, I excused myself and pressed onward. I don't mind talking with someone on the way, but I'm actually not in the mood to join a party.
The walk from there went relatively smoothly. I discovered there is a part of Route 1 that you CANNOT walk, despite what Google thinks. Google, I am not a car. I cannot go ON the highway. In any case, that area naturally leads pedestrians onto Route 30, so just trust the road.
Two hours later I was lucky again to find a shopping mall on the route. I grabbed some sashimi (raw fish) from the grocer and ate it in the food court. From there it was a 1 hour walk to Chigasaki (where I also stopped at a Gyomu Super to grab avocados and cheese haha). While in Chigasaki I called the net cafe in Hiratsuka to confirm if they were open. Their website would not load, so I was worried something happened, and should worst come to worst the next place I could stay the night would be an hour away.
The call confirmed that the net cafe was up and running, so I walked one more hour to Hiratsuka.
I always feel the most energetic in the first and last hour of my daily walks. Today I couldn't help but dance a little with my hands (legs are kinda busy), and when a language course came on I was ready to repeat all the phrases aloud as I walked. No one will bother to stop me, so why not. They probably think I am on a call with someone. Singing is more difficult... people will know when you're singing.
Finally, at about 8:30 I reached the center of Hiratsuka. I found the net cafe I planned to stay at and chose the best time package. I decided to get the 9-hour pack for 1800 yen. However, I had to wait until 10 pm. Fine, no problem.
As I was waiting a Japanese man asked me if I needed any help, but when I spoke back in Japanese he was surprised to hear me speak. We spoke a little and he offered to buy me a drink while I waited to go into the cafe. I accepted the company, ordered a hot tea and we talked for an hour until 10 pm.
Day two was coming to a good end. I got into the net cafe, paid for my time package and got a flat seat booth ("for sleeping"). The manager was very kind, and my flat booth was perfect. There was also a couple good movies I could watch while I ate my dinner (avocado, cheese, sliced chicken and another small salad).
[+33km = 63 kilometers total]
Yeah, this is the best net cafe I have been to yet.
Halfway through the movie, at midnight, I decided I would sleep until 6 am.
My wish was not granted.
THE GUY IN THE NEXT BOOTH SNORES LIKE A BEARRRRRRRRRR. WHYYYYY???? HOW CAN YOU SLEEP? NO ONE ELSE CAN SLEEP!!!
*tears tears angry tears*
So.... that's why I can't sleep and I wrote this blog haha. Now it's 5:15. The man left 30 minutes ago. I am going to try and get a little sleep in now!
Until next time, take care!
ON TO DAY THREE & FOUR>>>
****I WILL ADD PICTURES LATER I PROMISE****
It's been 2 days since I left Nagoya.
FRIDAY, MARCH 3rd, DAY ZERO
I caught a bus from Nagoya Station to Tokyo. That morning I went to my student's graduation. To be honest during most of the ceremony I kept spacing out and running over the day's plans in my head. One thing did stick out to me however. In the student representative's "Thank you" message they said something like this:
"I know there will be good times and hard times. But in those hard times, instead of saying "I'm tired" I think we should say "Look how far I've come / Look how much I've done.""
At the start of what I knew to be a tiring trip, I really took those words to heart.
**
The bus took about 6.5 hours from Nagoya to Kawasaki, via Tokyo. It did stop in Shinjuku, but I had plans to stay with my friend in Yokohama (just south of the Tokyo Metropolitan), so Kawasaki was the closest I could go by bus. Normally, I enjoy bus trips, but normally I am only on the bus for 3 hours. You can guess how happy I was to get off at my destination.
My friend came to meet me at the station and we went back to the apartment he shares with his girlfriend. I was in for my first surprise. He lives UP on a hill. There was a hundred stairs to climb (it seemed). First the bus, now this trek up a small mountain... my mind was telling me all kinds of trouble must be coming.
The reality that I was doing this trip still hadn't set in however. I was just hanging out at my friends house. Nothing challenging yet.
**
MARCH 4th, DAY ONE, 7:20 a.m.
The alarm on my watch didn't go off. I was getting started an hour later than I had planned - but in reality, I probably would have woken up an hour too early. I quickly ate breakfast (2 eggs and some cheese), packed up my bag, and told my friend that I would be back around 6 or 7 p.m.
I caught the train from Yokohama Station and rode it into Tokyo. The official start of my trip would be at NIHOMBASHI.
But first, a coffee.
Many of you reading this know that I don't usually drink coffee, and I generally tend to avoid cafes. The only reason I chose to go was because I was going to meet a friend from university who I haven't seen in almost 2 years. She now lives and works in Tokyo, so it was a perfect chance to meet again.
After our meeting, she walked with me to Nihombashi. This was it. It was actually starting!!
But first, let me take a selfie (haha).
Now with full spirits and a good picture to mark the moment, I took my first step on my journey.
Walking of course came naturally. This is what I had been training over 2 months for. I kept my eyes open for markers of the Old Tokaido trail, but there was little of interest to me in those first hours - just buildings, people, streets.... you know, a city. Thankfully, sightseeing is NOT the purpose of this trip!
**
3 hours from Nihombashi I made a stop in Kamata to meet another friend who I hadn't seen in almost 2.5 years! We had hung out a lot while I was an exchange student, so we were very close. It was just like old times.
He also bought me lunch: Freshness Burger's Avocado Burger, without the bun. Thank you~
We talked for over an hour and I was feeling rejuvenated. 3 more hours to go and I would be back in Yokohama. I realized how lucky I was that my first day went so well. The weather was great, not too hot and with a slight breeze. I had the chance to reunite with my friends. And free food. That always makes for a good day.
Eventually I reached my friend's apartment in Yokohama. His girlfriend made gyoza (meat dumplings, mine were chicken) for dinner, which I had no guilt in eating after the 6-7 hour walk. We played a couple rounds of Jenga and then went to bed around 11 pm.
I'm glad it was a good day, but I also knew that my journey had only just begun. If I was taking the ring to Mordor, day one would be the start of the journey where we are all still innocent and having fun... before the orcs attack us.
Starting tomorrow, I'm alone.
[30 kilometers]
**
MARCH 5th, DAY TWO, 7 am
Two more eggs for breakfast. I am going to miss being able to cook my food.
I have two possible destinations today, either Chigasaki or Hiratsuka. Hiratsuka is slightly farther of the two, and I preferred to go there because it would make my walk on the 6th an hour shorter. Either way, I was planning to spend the night at a net cafe.
Just before I left from Yokohama, another friend of mine stopped in to take my place at the apartment haha. The three of them sent me off with well wishes, and day two began.
I was taking Route 1 from Yokohama and finally seeing markers of the Old Tokaido road. On my way down from Tokyo I stayed on Route 15, so I only had markers which told me how far I had walked from Nihombashi. I took a few pictures of the trail markers, but as I mentioned before, I'm not doing this to sight-see.
About 2 hours in to my walk I spotted a pair of backpackers ahead of me. I suspected they were walking the Tokaido as well (not alone after all!) However, they made a stop at a convenient store, while I still wanted to continue walking. If they were really on this road for the long haul, we would probably run into each other again, I thought, so I kept on my way.
Initially, I had marked a restaurant on my map to rest at. Every 2 hours or so I plan to rest my legs and shoulders, and maybe eat something too. My luck was good. There was a small department / supermarket in Totsuka on the way. I stopped in with the intention to buy some food and then eat it at a nearby park, but I noticed they had a small sitting area which we could use freely. Don't mind if I do. Second breakfast was green tea, a small salad, and bran rolls with butter.
I was feeling good and confident about my plans and training thus far. My legs were sound, and even my shoulders were adjusting to the weight of my bag (8-9kg, or about 18 lbs). The weather was actually warmer than I had been expecting, but thankfully I planned for that too. Also, I could take breaks on my own time, and eat what and when I wanted - freedom!
It was during my second short break at a Lawson that I spotted the two backpackers from earlier. Yup, they were walking the trail. Time to make my day a little more interesting. The hunt was on. I quickly jumped back on the trail and followed after them.
If I caught up, I would say something... well, I did catch up because they stopped at the bottom of a hill to rest a bit. I sort of awkwardly said "Hey" as I drew closer and confirmed my suspicions. They were indeed walking the Tokaido route, but only to Kyoto. The pair of them were also planning to stop at a hotel in Hiratsuka that night. Maybe I am a little competitive, but that set my mind to going as far as Hiratsuka as well.
Figuring we would run into each other again, I excused myself and pressed onward. I don't mind talking with someone on the way, but I'm actually not in the mood to join a party.
The walk from there went relatively smoothly. I discovered there is a part of Route 1 that you CANNOT walk, despite what Google thinks. Google, I am not a car. I cannot go ON the highway. In any case, that area naturally leads pedestrians onto Route 30, so just trust the road.
Two hours later I was lucky again to find a shopping mall on the route. I grabbed some sashimi (raw fish) from the grocer and ate it in the food court. From there it was a 1 hour walk to Chigasaki (where I also stopped at a Gyomu Super to grab avocados and cheese haha). While in Chigasaki I called the net cafe in Hiratsuka to confirm if they were open. Their website would not load, so I was worried something happened, and should worst come to worst the next place I could stay the night would be an hour away.
The call confirmed that the net cafe was up and running, so I walked one more hour to Hiratsuka.
I always feel the most energetic in the first and last hour of my daily walks. Today I couldn't help but dance a little with my hands (legs are kinda busy), and when a language course came on I was ready to repeat all the phrases aloud as I walked. No one will bother to stop me, so why not. They probably think I am on a call with someone. Singing is more difficult... people will know when you're singing.
Finally, at about 8:30 I reached the center of Hiratsuka. I found the net cafe I planned to stay at and chose the best time package. I decided to get the 9-hour pack for 1800 yen. However, I had to wait until 10 pm. Fine, no problem.
As I was waiting a Japanese man asked me if I needed any help, but when I spoke back in Japanese he was surprised to hear me speak. We spoke a little and he offered to buy me a drink while I waited to go into the cafe. I accepted the company, ordered a hot tea and we talked for an hour until 10 pm.
Day two was coming to a good end. I got into the net cafe, paid for my time package and got a flat seat booth ("for sleeping"). The manager was very kind, and my flat booth was perfect. There was also a couple good movies I could watch while I ate my dinner (avocado, cheese, sliced chicken and another small salad).
[+33km = 63 kilometers total]
Yeah, this is the best net cafe I have been to yet.
Halfway through the movie, at midnight, I decided I would sleep until 6 am.
My wish was not granted.
THE GUY IN THE NEXT BOOTH SNORES LIKE A BEARRRRRRRRRR. WHYYYYY???? HOW CAN YOU SLEEP? NO ONE ELSE CAN SLEEP!!!
*tears tears angry tears*
So.... that's why I can't sleep and I wrote this blog haha. Now it's 5:15. The man left 30 minutes ago. I am going to try and get a little sleep in now!
Until next time, take care!
ON TO DAY THREE & FOUR>>>
Saturday, February 4, 2017
Walking the Old Tokaido (1)
I have an announcement!
This March, 2017, I am going to go on an adventure. I wanted to challenge myself and do something within my own capabilities - by my own power. As I am living in Japan, I wanted to do something not too far from home (Nagoya) but it had to be something that had a clear start and finish.
At first I thought, okay I'll do a marathon, it's physically challenging and I can train for it. But a few things turned me off to the idea - running around the city doesn't really get me anywhere, and more importantly I didn't want to possibly injure myself. My legs get enough abuse from dancing, and with even running 3-5km/day I could feel the tension in my knee and ankle. That meant it had to be something with a lower impact... like walking.
This idea occurred to me last summer, and it was by perfect chance that I saw a Japanese TV Program (YOUは何をしに日本へ?) that featured a woman from Australia who was traveling across part of Japan on the Old Tokaido Road. It seemed like the perfect idea, and after a couple weeks of contemplation I settled on the idea in August.
Since then I've been planning on and off, mapping my route, and "training" by getting used to long distance walking. Now there is less than a month left and the real preparation begins!!
Tokyo (Nihombashi) to Osaka (Koraibashi), 516km, estimated 20+ days.
*the original route is 53 stations to Kyoto, but since I'm already walking forever, I decided to added 4 more stations to reach Osaka :)
This March, 2017, I am going to go on an adventure. I wanted to challenge myself and do something within my own capabilities - by my own power. As I am living in Japan, I wanted to do something not too far from home (Nagoya) but it had to be something that had a clear start and finish.
At first I thought, okay I'll do a marathon, it's physically challenging and I can train for it. But a few things turned me off to the idea - running around the city doesn't really get me anywhere, and more importantly I didn't want to possibly injure myself. My legs get enough abuse from dancing, and with even running 3-5km/day I could feel the tension in my knee and ankle. That meant it had to be something with a lower impact... like walking.
This idea occurred to me last summer, and it was by perfect chance that I saw a Japanese TV Program (YOUは何をしに日本へ?) that featured a woman from Australia who was traveling across part of Japan on the Old Tokaido Road. It seemed like the perfect idea, and after a couple weeks of contemplation I settled on the idea in August.
Since then I've been planning on and off, mapping my route, and "training" by getting used to long distance walking. Now there is less than a month left and the real preparation begins!!
Tokyo (Nihombashi) to Osaka (Koraibashi), 516km, estimated 20+ days.
*the original route is 53 stations to Kyoto, but since I'm already walking forever, I decided to added 4 more stations to reach Osaka :)
Friday, December 23, 2016
Deluxe Tour Japan Winter 2016 (Part Three: TOKYO, Day Two)
(*This blog was written a few weeks after the trip, but I changed the post-date for organizational reasons~ ^^)
December 23rd, Day Two, TOKYO
We woke up well-rested in the comfy hotel beds at about 7 a.m. (I actually didn't sleep so pleasantly, but that's nothing for you to worry about). For breakfast, we decided to stop at the nearby supermarket around the corner, which was a small AEON (store chain). I was pointing out various foods and snacks that my brothers would have to try during their trip, and their logic was, why not now?
What could have been a healthy breakfast was now... a 3 piece onigiri set, chocolate chip melon bread, yukimi daifuku (ice cream wrapped in mochi), yakipurin (similar to a custard), anman (a bun filled with sweet azuki beans), and Gari Gari Kun (a soda flavored popsicle, yes more ice cream). This was shared by my two brothers, while I (who had bowel issues in the morning) opted for the aojiru (green smoothie) mixed with soy milk.
After breakfast, which was quickly dealt with in our room, using a spare chair as a table, we packed up and headed for the station at around 8:30. I knew, based on my super plan, that we would be going ALL-AROUND Tokyo today. It would normally cost a lot to jump on the subway for every commute, but given the distances we would be traveling it was not feasible to walk.
Tokyo Travel Advice #1, Get a rail pass!!
There are 24-, 36- and 72-hour passes available for the Tokyo Metro, the TOEI Line (the other subway), or a combination of both. And 24-hour doesn't mean one day, it means from 9 a.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, so it's actually a really good deal if you time it right! AND a 24-hour pass on the Tokyo Metro is only 600 yen (most trips on the subway range from 170-240 yen, depending on the distance).
Tokyo Travel Advice #2, Luggage Lockers!!
If you're not staying at the same hotel for the duration of your stay, then you want to put your heavy luggage somewhere safe, but also convenient. Depending on the size of the locker, it will cost 300 to 600 yen. Over-sized luggage can also be claimed at the Travel Service Counters located in Tokyo and Shinjuku stations, at 600 yen a piece. You can keep your luggage stored away for up to 3 days in the lockers, but you will have to claim it before closing if you drop it off at a service counter. For the record, the locker price is per day.
Almost all stations have lockers, and any of the bigger stations are usually accommodating for large luggage as well. I also recommend that you plan which station you want to use so that you don't end up making extra trips. It was my first time, so I didn't realize that there was a surplus of lockers. We left ours in Tokyo, but I later realized that Shinjuku (where we would depart from by bus) would have been more convenient.
Now, it's just past 9 a.m. and our sightseeing officially starts with a trip to...
BUNKYO CIVIC CENTER, Korakuen Station, Marunouchi Line
Using our Metro Pass, we hopped on the Marunouchi Line from Tokyo station to Korakuen. It's not a very well known stop, but if you do your research you'll find that the station is right next to the Bunkyo Civic Center. Again, maybe you haven't heard of it. However, it is one of the few locations in Tokyo that has a FREE observation deck. Just take the elevator up to the 52nd floor and get a 270 degree panorama view of the city, including the new SkyTree. On a clear day, and with a very nice zoom lens, you can also see Mt. Fuji to the west between the skyscrapers.
We didn't spend long at the observatory because you can only take so many pictures! There was still much to see... We went down to the basement floor and hopped on the Metro, once again riding the Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro Station.
POKEMON CENTER MEGA, Ikebukuro Station, Marunouchi Line
Ikebukuro - the first place that I had truly visited on my first trip to Japan in 2011. The name brought back many memories for me, but unfortunately we wouldn't be walking down memory lane. I had a particular destination in mind to appease our inner child.
Who doesn't love Pokemon? There are Pokemon Centers located all over Japan, but the one located in Ikebukuro is currently the largest! We had to check it out for ourselves.
Pokeballs line the escalator nearest the store!! I told my brother to look excited, haha.
It was PACKED. The 23rd also happened to be a public holiday, so everyone and their brother decided to come to this store. The line literally wrapped around the store, so I'm sure the cue would have taken over an hour.
It was my first trip to a Pokemon Center in a long time, so I did not know about these adorable new Pikachu designs!!! I wanted them so bad, but did I want to wait in that line? No. I would wait for the next Pokemon Center...
I'm going to take a leap and say that the mascot for the POKEMON CENTER MEGA is Charizard.
Despite all of Tokyo's Pokemon Lovers gathering in the store and making it impossible for us to comfortably browse, it gave us an idea of what to look forward to. As the clock was nearing noon, we left the department store and headed back to the station.
Our next destination would be the well-known Harajuku.
HARAJUKU & MEIJI SHRINE, Meiji Jingu Mae, Fukutoshin Line
From one big crowd to another, that's the city for you. Now, there are a couple lines that will take you from Ikebukuro to the Harajuku area, the most immediate would be the JR Yamanote Line. (If you have a Japan Rail Pass, then you should be taking all the JRs!!) However, we had the Metro Pass, so we took the Fukutoshin Line to Meiji Jingu Mae Station.
Leaving the station, we were still a good ways from Harajuku station but the streets were packed. We actually approached the famous Takeshita Dori from the opposite side. Sometimes I wonder why I brought them to Harajuku because it is known for its quirky fashions and popularity with the youth. None of us had any interest in fashion, so we kinda of just walked up the street acknowledging the various shops.
Well, there was one other thing that Harajuku was famous for... crepes!
Actually you can get crepes anywhere, but... It was lunch time! There are not only dessert crepes, like Macha Chocolate Brownie, but also more savory options such as Tuna and Cheese or Teriyaki Chicken. We actually ordered these three, but can you guess who got what? :)
Once we finished walking up the street, we finally saw the main entrance. They are always changing the design, and I think this one is my favorite because it's a dinosaur~
This is the actual Harajuku Station. You can see how crowded it is already, but the station itself is a pretty cool, old-style design. Thankfully, we would not be going into that station. We walked down the street towards our next destination, but the single crepe wasn't a satisfying lunch. All the delicious smells of lunch on the street led me to GinDako, a famous Takoyaki chain. (Takoyaki is fried dough balls with a piece of tako, octopus inside).
You can get a variety of toppings nowadays, but since it was my brother's first time, I stuck with the original - sauce, mayo and bonito flakes. Delicious!
With full bellies, we literally crossed the street and the scenery went from concrete jungle to peaceful forest. Meiji Shrine, settled in the heart of Tokyo's Metropolitan is like another world. A nice, quiet, peaceful, and less crowded world.
Once again, this was another nostalgic trip for me because I had visited the Meiji Shrine with my classmates from University in 2011. I was ready to just chill and enjoy the nature and take pictures... when we were approached by some University students. They were offering to be guides at the shrine so they could practice their English (apparently this is a thing their school club does). I didn't need a guide, but I saw the chance for my brothers to meet and talk with Japanese people their age, so I accepted their offer.
The students were nice, but still a little shy. Often I had to point out different parts of the shrine and suggest they 'guide us' about it. So much for me kicking back, haha. They were very informative, they just needed a little push.
They stayed with us through the main part of the shrine and into the courtyard. My absolute favorite piece is the giant tree that sits just to the right of the shrine stairs. It is surrounded by ema, which are (usually) wooden plaques on which people write their wishes. I had never done so before, nor would I probably have a chance (or reason) to do so again. It seemed like now was the time. My brothers and I all bought a plaque, wrote our messages and hung them around the tree. (I took too long writing mine, so I have no idea what my brothers wrote, or where they put them!!)
It was a nice new experience for an otherwise 'guided' walk down memory lane. Overall, it was a good way to spend lunch and get away from the bustle of the city. (You can probably guess, I'm not a fan of big cities).
From there, we left the peace of the shrine and also the over-populated Harajuku area, and then took the Metro towards Tokyo Tower.
TOKYO TOWER, Kamiyacho Station, Chiyoda & Hibiya Line
Again, we wanted to use our Metro Pass, so we took the Chiyoda Line from Meiji Jingu Mae, and changed to the Hibiya Line at Kasumigaseki. We got off at Kamiyacho and walked towards Tokyo Tower, which was easy to find because it was poking out behind the buildings.
What I did not expect to find that day was some sort of Mario Kart Parade? I couldn't whip my camera out fast enough, but we turned the corner just before Tokyo Tower to see half a dozen people in Go-Karts, decked out like Mario characters, going down the street. Only Tokyo.
Tokyo Tower wasn't as populated as I remembered it, thankfully. I assume that's because people were now visiting the Tokyo Skytree instead. We would have gone up to the observatory, but duiue to motion sickness still lingering with one of our members, we opted out.
Instead we went down the road a little to a park nearby the tower. Despite it being December, fall colors were still prominent on the trees and on the ground.
We took some more pictures and rested our legs a little at the park. To be honest, I needed to adjust my plans. We were ahead of schedule, but we of course hadn't really rested since we left our hotel. Not only that, but my battery was running low from taking so many pictures. I rerouted us to Asakusa, via the Ginza Line and we took refuge in the McDonald's for about an hour.
ASAKUSA - SENSOJI TEMPLE, Asakusa Station, Hibiya & Ginza Line
After chilling at McDonald's with some fries and melon soda we stepped out to visit the Sensoji Temple, most well-known for its large red gates. Again, I had visited this location before in 2011, but this was the first time I saw it at night. I recommend it!! The lighting with the red gates and architecture makes a real impact. I loved taking pictures here.
If you ever have the chance to visit Asakusa, go at night! It's also less crowded~
By the time we left Asakusa it was about 5:30 p.m. We had done everything there was to do on my list, and we all agreed it was a full day - we were tired and getting hungry.
Our next stop would take us just outside of the Tokyo Metro area, so we couldn't use our passes. We took the JR Line down to Keikyu Kamata, and sought out the guesthouse that I had booked for the night.
Tokyo Travel Advice #3, Stay at guesthouses!!
On this trip I had booked our first night at the Best Western Hotel very early on while my plans were still in the works. I figured it would be nice for my brothers to get some real rest after the 13+ hour flight. I don't regret it either, BUT I wish I had also checked the guesthouse for that night. The guesthouse we chose in Kamata was not only closer to the airport, but we could have booked it for two nights and stored our luggage there. Lesson learned.
Most guesthouses are actually really nice, and very affordable. Our room was only 2500 yen per person, and the beds were super comfy. It had three beds altogether, perfect for us!
Guesthouse Kamata is also conveniently located about a 12 minute walk from the station and lots of restaurants! My friend who was living in the area was able to meet us for dinner at Hamazushi. Brothers first conveyor belt sushi - I think they enjoyed it, even though one brother isn't so fond of fish. There's more than just fish! There's also chicken, beef and egg, as well as side dishes and dessert. So, if you don't like fish, you can still enjoy the experience and some cheap food :)
That was all for the first real full-day of the Deluxe Tour. Tomorrow will be another adventure~
December 23rd, Day Two, TOKYO
We woke up well-rested in the comfy hotel beds at about 7 a.m. (I actually didn't sleep so pleasantly, but that's nothing for you to worry about). For breakfast, we decided to stop at the nearby supermarket around the corner, which was a small AEON (store chain). I was pointing out various foods and snacks that my brothers would have to try during their trip, and their logic was, why not now?
What could have been a healthy breakfast was now... a 3 piece onigiri set, chocolate chip melon bread, yukimi daifuku (ice cream wrapped in mochi), yakipurin (similar to a custard), anman (a bun filled with sweet azuki beans), and Gari Gari Kun (a soda flavored popsicle, yes more ice cream). This was shared by my two brothers, while I (who had bowel issues in the morning) opted for the aojiru (green smoothie) mixed with soy milk.
After breakfast, which was quickly dealt with in our room, using a spare chair as a table, we packed up and headed for the station at around 8:30. I knew, based on my super plan, that we would be going ALL-AROUND Tokyo today. It would normally cost a lot to jump on the subway for every commute, but given the distances we would be traveling it was not feasible to walk.
Tokyo Travel Advice #1, Get a rail pass!!
There are 24-, 36- and 72-hour passes available for the Tokyo Metro, the TOEI Line (the other subway), or a combination of both. And 24-hour doesn't mean one day, it means from 9 a.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, so it's actually a really good deal if you time it right! AND a 24-hour pass on the Tokyo Metro is only 600 yen (most trips on the subway range from 170-240 yen, depending on the distance).
Tokyo Travel Advice #2, Luggage Lockers!!
If you're not staying at the same hotel for the duration of your stay, then you want to put your heavy luggage somewhere safe, but also convenient. Depending on the size of the locker, it will cost 300 to 600 yen. Over-sized luggage can also be claimed at the Travel Service Counters located in Tokyo and Shinjuku stations, at 600 yen a piece. You can keep your luggage stored away for up to 3 days in the lockers, but you will have to claim it before closing if you drop it off at a service counter. For the record, the locker price is per day.
Almost all stations have lockers, and any of the bigger stations are usually accommodating for large luggage as well. I also recommend that you plan which station you want to use so that you don't end up making extra trips. It was my first time, so I didn't realize that there was a surplus of lockers. We left ours in Tokyo, but I later realized that Shinjuku (where we would depart from by bus) would have been more convenient.
Now, it's just past 9 a.m. and our sightseeing officially starts with a trip to...
BUNKYO CIVIC CENTER, Korakuen Station, Marunouchi Line
Using our Metro Pass, we hopped on the Marunouchi Line from Tokyo station to Korakuen. It's not a very well known stop, but if you do your research you'll find that the station is right next to the Bunkyo Civic Center. Again, maybe you haven't heard of it. However, it is one of the few locations in Tokyo that has a FREE observation deck. Just take the elevator up to the 52nd floor and get a 270 degree panorama view of the city, including the new SkyTree. On a clear day, and with a very nice zoom lens, you can also see Mt. Fuji to the west between the skyscrapers.
We didn't spend long at the observatory because you can only take so many pictures! There was still much to see... We went down to the basement floor and hopped on the Metro, once again riding the Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro Station.
POKEMON CENTER MEGA, Ikebukuro Station, Marunouchi Line
Ikebukuro - the first place that I had truly visited on my first trip to Japan in 2011. The name brought back many memories for me, but unfortunately we wouldn't be walking down memory lane. I had a particular destination in mind to appease our inner child.
Who doesn't love Pokemon? There are Pokemon Centers located all over Japan, but the one located in Ikebukuro is currently the largest! We had to check it out for ourselves.
From the station you will walk through Sunshine City, which is a nice little area filled with mostly restaurants and shops. Then after you pass under the highway there is a large hotel and department store that looks too expensive to even step inside to. You really want to enter from the eastern side of the building if you want to avoid walking through the hotel lobby. Once you're safe in the world of the common people, take the escalator up to the third floor. You'll know you're in the right area.
Pokeballs line the escalator nearest the store!! I told my brother to look excited, haha.
It was PACKED. The 23rd also happened to be a public holiday, so everyone and their brother decided to come to this store. The line literally wrapped around the store, so I'm sure the cue would have taken over an hour.
It was my first trip to a Pokemon Center in a long time, so I did not know about these adorable new Pikachu designs!!! I wanted them so bad, but did I want to wait in that line? No. I would wait for the next Pokemon Center...
I'm going to take a leap and say that the mascot for the POKEMON CENTER MEGA is Charizard.
Despite all of Tokyo's Pokemon Lovers gathering in the store and making it impossible for us to comfortably browse, it gave us an idea of what to look forward to. As the clock was nearing noon, we left the department store and headed back to the station.
Our next destination would be the well-known Harajuku.
HARAJUKU & MEIJI SHRINE, Meiji Jingu Mae, Fukutoshin Line
From one big crowd to another, that's the city for you. Now, there are a couple lines that will take you from Ikebukuro to the Harajuku area, the most immediate would be the JR Yamanote Line. (If you have a Japan Rail Pass, then you should be taking all the JRs!!) However, we had the Metro Pass, so we took the Fukutoshin Line to Meiji Jingu Mae Station.
Leaving the station, we were still a good ways from Harajuku station but the streets were packed. We actually approached the famous Takeshita Dori from the opposite side. Sometimes I wonder why I brought them to Harajuku because it is known for its quirky fashions and popularity with the youth. None of us had any interest in fashion, so we kinda of just walked up the street acknowledging the various shops.
Well, there was one other thing that Harajuku was famous for... crepes!
Actually you can get crepes anywhere, but... It was lunch time! There are not only dessert crepes, like Macha Chocolate Brownie, but also more savory options such as Tuna and Cheese or Teriyaki Chicken. We actually ordered these three, but can you guess who got what? :)
With full bellies, we literally crossed the street and the scenery went from concrete jungle to peaceful forest. Meiji Shrine, settled in the heart of Tokyo's Metropolitan is like another world. A nice, quiet, peaceful, and less crowded world.
Once again, this was another nostalgic trip for me because I had visited the Meiji Shrine with my classmates from University in 2011. I was ready to just chill and enjoy the nature and take pictures... when we were approached by some University students. They were offering to be guides at the shrine so they could practice their English (apparently this is a thing their school club does). I didn't need a guide, but I saw the chance for my brothers to meet and talk with Japanese people their age, so I accepted their offer.
The students were nice, but still a little shy. Often I had to point out different parts of the shrine and suggest they 'guide us' about it. So much for me kicking back, haha. They were very informative, they just needed a little push.
They stayed with us through the main part of the shrine and into the courtyard. My absolute favorite piece is the giant tree that sits just to the right of the shrine stairs. It is surrounded by ema, which are (usually) wooden plaques on which people write their wishes. I had never done so before, nor would I probably have a chance (or reason) to do so again. It seemed like now was the time. My brothers and I all bought a plaque, wrote our messages and hung them around the tree. (I took too long writing mine, so I have no idea what my brothers wrote, or where they put them!!)
It was a nice new experience for an otherwise 'guided' walk down memory lane. Overall, it was a good way to spend lunch and get away from the bustle of the city. (You can probably guess, I'm not a fan of big cities).
From there, we left the peace of the shrine and also the over-populated Harajuku area, and then took the Metro towards Tokyo Tower.
TOKYO TOWER, Kamiyacho Station, Chiyoda & Hibiya Line
Again, we wanted to use our Metro Pass, so we took the Chiyoda Line from Meiji Jingu Mae, and changed to the Hibiya Line at Kasumigaseki. We got off at Kamiyacho and walked towards Tokyo Tower, which was easy to find because it was poking out behind the buildings.
What I did not expect to find that day was some sort of Mario Kart Parade? I couldn't whip my camera out fast enough, but we turned the corner just before Tokyo Tower to see half a dozen people in Go-Karts, decked out like Mario characters, going down the street. Only Tokyo.
Tokyo Tower wasn't as populated as I remembered it, thankfully. I assume that's because people were now visiting the Tokyo Skytree instead. We would have gone up to the observatory, but duiue to motion sickness still lingering with one of our members, we opted out.
Instead we went down the road a little to a park nearby the tower. Despite it being December, fall colors were still prominent on the trees and on the ground.
From the park, I also managed to take this shot of Tokyo Tower. You rarely see it from this point of view, but there is something really romantic about the red of the tower and the black silhouettes of the trees. Very proud of this picture.
We took some more pictures and rested our legs a little at the park. To be honest, I needed to adjust my plans. We were ahead of schedule, but we of course hadn't really rested since we left our hotel. Not only that, but my battery was running low from taking so many pictures. I rerouted us to Asakusa, via the Ginza Line and we took refuge in the McDonald's for about an hour.
ASAKUSA - SENSOJI TEMPLE, Asakusa Station, Hibiya & Ginza Line
After chilling at McDonald's with some fries and melon soda we stepped out to visit the Sensoji Temple, most well-known for its large red gates. Again, I had visited this location before in 2011, but this was the first time I saw it at night. I recommend it!! The lighting with the red gates and architecture makes a real impact. I loved taking pictures here.
If you ever have the chance to visit Asakusa, go at night! It's also less crowded~
By the time we left Asakusa it was about 5:30 p.m. We had done everything there was to do on my list, and we all agreed it was a full day - we were tired and getting hungry.
Our next stop would take us just outside of the Tokyo Metro area, so we couldn't use our passes. We took the JR Line down to Keikyu Kamata, and sought out the guesthouse that I had booked for the night.
Tokyo Travel Advice #3, Stay at guesthouses!!
On this trip I had booked our first night at the Best Western Hotel very early on while my plans were still in the works. I figured it would be nice for my brothers to get some real rest after the 13+ hour flight. I don't regret it either, BUT I wish I had also checked the guesthouse for that night. The guesthouse we chose in Kamata was not only closer to the airport, but we could have booked it for two nights and stored our luggage there. Lesson learned.
Most guesthouses are actually really nice, and very affordable. Our room was only 2500 yen per person, and the beds were super comfy. It had three beds altogether, perfect for us!
Guesthouse Kamata is also conveniently located about a 12 minute walk from the station and lots of restaurants! My friend who was living in the area was able to meet us for dinner at Hamazushi. Brothers first conveyor belt sushi - I think they enjoyed it, even though one brother isn't so fond of fish. There's more than just fish! There's also chicken, beef and egg, as well as side dishes and dessert. So, if you don't like fish, you can still enjoy the experience and some cheap food :)
Thursday, December 22, 2016
Deluxe Tour Japan Winter 2016 (Part Two: TOKYO, Day One)
(*This blog was written a few weeks after the trip, but I changed the post date for organizational reasons)
December 22nd, Day One, TOKYO
I left my apartment around 5:00 a.m. and walked to Nagoya station to catch the bus to Tokyo. I highly recommend traveling by highway bus! They are becoming more and more comfortable now, and they are considerably cheaper than traveling by Shinkansen or most trains. The company I often use is WillerExpress.
From Nagoya to Tokyo it is about a six hour bus ride, with pit stops about every two hours at a service station (which for the record are also very nice!) My bus was an hour late arriving to Tokyo because we spent nearly 45 minutes LITERALLY just outside Tokyo stuck in traffic. This of course wouldn't happen with trains, however it was understandable.
From the bus station in Shinjuku I took the JR Line and Monorail out to Haneda Airport, arriving about an hour before my brothers were scheduled to arrive. When they arrived they were of course tired after the long 13 hour flight, but I was so happy to see them. It felt unreal seeing them in Japan.
Now that they were in Japan my job as their tour guide began! Haha. Rather than taking the limousine bus directly to Odaiba, as was initially planned, I found that we could also go by Monorail, and then by train, for slightly cheaper. The trains were also more frequent than the bus, so we headed out right away.
While on the monorail my brothers had their first glimpse of Japan - well, of Tokyo. We changed from the Monorail to the train at Tennozu Isle. It wasn't long before we reached our first destination, disembarking at Tokyo Teleport. The weather was threatening rain, but for a December day it was relatively warm. We walked from the station past Palette Town (Pokemon anyone?) towards Diver City. Standing magnificently over the small hill was the sight we were waiting to see...
Yes. The life-size Gundam statue. As fans of Gundam, this was a must-see. And since we had arrived there around 5pm we had time to visit Gundam Front, located on the 7th floor of Diver City. Gundam Front is a part museum, part goods shop. Not only can you see new art and information about the current Gundam series, but you can also watch special animations in the theater. The movies are 3D and presented in a planetarium-like room, so you can really immerse yourself in it! Aside from the theater there is an open lobby with large models and costumes that you can take pictures with, plus a small factory where you can build your own model and goods shop. My brother said it made up for their long flight, so we were off to a good start!!
We left Gundam Front in good spirits and I decided to take my brothers to Yoshinoya for some beef and rice bowls. When I first visited Japan in 2011, I have a clear memory of going to Yoshinoya for my first meal. It's very simple compared to its competitor Sukiya, but it was still delicious. We ordered one bowl each (regular beef and rice, beef with green onion and egg, and karubi (which is short rib meat often found at yakiniku, BBQ, places) and shared them. Once they got over the raw egg idea they realized that it was the best flavor~ ^^
Now it was getting late and it was time to head to our hotel. We left Diver City and said good-bye to the Gundam. From there we walked towards Aqua City to catch a view of Fuji TV Building and the Rainbow Bridge.
Then the plan was to take the bus from Odaiba to Nishikasai, where our hotel was located. This is where it is important to DOUBLE CHECK the bus number. Two buses where set to depart from our bus stop, and the one that I mistook took us in the opposite direction towards Kanagawa! Oh no! Not the first day! But I quickly... not quick enough, but soon realized we were heading in the wrong direction, got off the bus, took another bus to Oi Machi and took a train from there to Tokyo Station, then caught the subway to Nishikasai. I promised to be very careful after that little side trip.
Our accomodations for the night were at the Best Western Hotel in Nishikasai. We had a 3-bed room on the 4th floor. It was one of the nicest places I have ever stayed at. I booked the room via Booking.com and got it for nearly half price at 5500 yen per person.
And so day one came to a peaceful end. Sleep well, my brothers, tomorrow is a busy day.
December 22nd, Day One, TOKYO
I left my apartment around 5:00 a.m. and walked to Nagoya station to catch the bus to Tokyo. I highly recommend traveling by highway bus! They are becoming more and more comfortable now, and they are considerably cheaper than traveling by Shinkansen or most trains. The company I often use is WillerExpress.
From Nagoya to Tokyo it is about a six hour bus ride, with pit stops about every two hours at a service station (which for the record are also very nice!) My bus was an hour late arriving to Tokyo because we spent nearly 45 minutes LITERALLY just outside Tokyo stuck in traffic. This of course wouldn't happen with trains, however it was understandable.
From the bus station in Shinjuku I took the JR Line and Monorail out to Haneda Airport, arriving about an hour before my brothers were scheduled to arrive. When they arrived they were of course tired after the long 13 hour flight, but I was so happy to see them. It felt unreal seeing them in Japan.
Now that they were in Japan my job as their tour guide began! Haha. Rather than taking the limousine bus directly to Odaiba, as was initially planned, I found that we could also go by Monorail, and then by train, for slightly cheaper. The trains were also more frequent than the bus, so we headed out right away.
While on the monorail my brothers had their first glimpse of Japan - well, of Tokyo. We changed from the Monorail to the train at Tennozu Isle. It wasn't long before we reached our first destination, disembarking at Tokyo Teleport. The weather was threatening rain, but for a December day it was relatively warm. We walked from the station past Palette Town (Pokemon anyone?) towards Diver City. Standing magnificently over the small hill was the sight we were waiting to see...
Yes. The life-size Gundam statue. As fans of Gundam, this was a must-see. And since we had arrived there around 5pm we had time to visit Gundam Front, located on the 7th floor of Diver City. Gundam Front is a part museum, part goods shop. Not only can you see new art and information about the current Gundam series, but you can also watch special animations in the theater. The movies are 3D and presented in a planetarium-like room, so you can really immerse yourself in it! Aside from the theater there is an open lobby with large models and costumes that you can take pictures with, plus a small factory where you can build your own model and goods shop. My brother said it made up for their long flight, so we were off to a good start!!
We left Gundam Front in good spirits and I decided to take my brothers to Yoshinoya for some beef and rice bowls. When I first visited Japan in 2011, I have a clear memory of going to Yoshinoya for my first meal. It's very simple compared to its competitor Sukiya, but it was still delicious. We ordered one bowl each (regular beef and rice, beef with green onion and egg, and karubi (which is short rib meat often found at yakiniku, BBQ, places) and shared them. Once they got over the raw egg idea they realized that it was the best flavor~ ^^
Now it was getting late and it was time to head to our hotel. We left Diver City and said good-bye to the Gundam. From there we walked towards Aqua City to catch a view of Fuji TV Building and the Rainbow Bridge.
Then the plan was to take the bus from Odaiba to Nishikasai, where our hotel was located. This is where it is important to DOUBLE CHECK the bus number. Two buses where set to depart from our bus stop, and the one that I mistook took us in the opposite direction towards Kanagawa! Oh no! Not the first day! But I quickly... not quick enough, but soon realized we were heading in the wrong direction, got off the bus, took another bus to Oi Machi and took a train from there to Tokyo Station, then caught the subway to Nishikasai. I promised to be very careful after that little side trip.
Our accomodations for the night were at the Best Western Hotel in Nishikasai. We had a 3-bed room on the 4th floor. It was one of the nicest places I have ever stayed at. I booked the room via Booking.com and got it for nearly half price at 5500 yen per person.
And so day one came to a peaceful end. Sleep well, my brothers, tomorrow is a busy day.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)