MARCH 10th
Today started off earlier than most. I left the net cafe before 5 AM, grabbed a few things from the nearest supermarket MaxValu (thankfully open 24 hours!) and began to make my way west as the sun rose behind me. The city roads were wide and clear; it was nice to walk on a clear path.
A couple hours later the road started to go into the mountains. I was not excited about climbing, so when I saw that there was a tunnel ahead of me I was relieved! However, before I could get close enough to enter I saw a sign and a map which displayed a part of the Old Tokaido Route.
I had made a silly promise to myself that if I found parts of the Old Route that I would walk it. It looked like I would be going up the mountain. Thankfully, it wasn't all that big and the trail was marked well. The area was part of a small park. As I went up the trail I noticed there were signs for the Meiji Tunnel. It was technically on a slightly different route, but it sounded more interesting than a shrine.
The trail leading up to the tunnel was deserted. It was only 8 AM at the time. The long tunnel went under a slope in the mountain and it was light with yellow-orange light bulbs. It was kind of dark and interesting, the perfect place to take some pictures. I must have spent at least a half hour there doing poses (break dance style). Only one person passed me on their bike, but I didn't care.
The descent from the mountain took me across a lumber yard and then down into a small neighborhood. I took a rest at the park. The small toilet they had looked like a big tree stump, which drew my attention in the first place. While I was resting my mother so happened to message me and we talked for an hour before I picked up to continue.
Okabe-juku was the next part of the route. It was very clean and had a fresh appeal to it for tourists. The town was nice and small, but as lunch drew closer I began to think of where to rest again. To my luck, there was a Steak Gusto just up the road. I was convinced they didn't exist since I had never seen one, but I had coupons for a meal there so I gladly took up the opportunity. The steak lunch meal came with an all-you-can-eat salad bar. I kept my salad options simple to keep the carbs low, so no dressing, no potato salad or carrots or bread or the like. It was still delicious, and so was the steak!!
After lunch I finally reached the 200km mark on Route 1. Two-fifths of the way! I stopped to take a picture and a lady pulled up to the curb. She asked me where I was going, I said Osaka. She clarified her question and asked where I was going today. I told her to Shimada, and she offered me a ride. I felt awkward declining her invitation, but I wasn't hitchhiking.
"It's a walking trip."
"So, you're not getting in?"
"Yeah. I'm sorry."
Only the smallest part of me wanted to ride, but I had come this far, and besides, my goal wasn't that far away.
The skies were blue and overall the weather that day had been fantastic. I had started out early, so when I reached my destination it was barely evening. I considered pushing on to the next available cafe, but it would have been over three hours away. I killed some time perusing a 100 yen shop and buying a black polyester scarf which could double as a sort of cap, since I lost my knit cap in Hakone. At 5 PM I settled down into another Kaikatsu CLUB and made my self comfortable for the next 12 hours.
[+24.8km= 204 kilometers total]
MARCH 11th
Heading out early again. It was still very dark. I chose to buy breakfast at a Lawson on my way, just a few minutes down the street. I bought some bran rolls, boiled eggs and some water. Finally when the sun had come up I was an hour into my walk through the small town. I stopped at a small park near the river and chowed down. My hands were cold from the morning chill.
The bridge took me across to Kanaya-juku, It seemed like it would be an easy day without too many checkpoints to cross. Well, the reason for that was because there were more mountains and hills. The entrance into the first mountain was up a marked road that was lined with red flags for the temple. I was lured into thinking that would be my only hill to climb, but I was wrong.
Over one mountain and down into a secluded valley with, you guessed it, another mountain in my path. The valley had one road running through it and only a half dozen fields and houses. I dreaded climbing up the other steep slope, but I hoped that once I cleared it I would be safe and clear.
Once again, I was wrong.
The descent was long and winding through an even more secluded area of farm land. Old men and women were burning grass in their fields, some were hanging laundry. It was very quiet. I listened to my Sherlock Holmes audio books to pass the time. It seemed like an eternity before I left those farms and found civilization again: a Family Mart. I needed to use the restroom.
Already two audio books down (each about 40 minutes) and nearly half a day done, I decided to eat lunch at Saizeriya. It was then, as I scrolled through Facebook on my phone, that I realized the date was March 11th, the anniversary of the tsunami in Fukushima. It just so happened that the red shirt I had been wearing with me on this trip was the same shirt I had designed for our fundraiser in University. That shirt has been with me through my biggest adventures in Japan: 2011, my first trip abroad and first time in Japan; 2014, when my friends and I went to the summit of Mt. Fuji to see the sunrise; and now, 2017, as I walk across Japan.
After lunch, the walk was considerably easier and I was away from any mountains. The fields around me were now open under a clear blue sky. By the time I reached Fukuroi City I was tired, but the sun just began to set.
Tonight would be the first night in many that I wouldn't spend alone. A friend who I had met in Tokushima last summer had moved to Shizuoka for work. Conveniently he happened to move to Fukuroi which was right on my route. Four of us, me, my friend, and his two co-workers went to eat Shabu-Shabu. Shabu-Shabu is a Japanese dish where one pot, with one or two soup flavors is set in the middle of the table and you boil the meat and vegetables you want to eat on your own. So much beef~ it was delicious.
I spent the night on my friend's floor, happily stuffed and relieved to have some company. Only one more day in Shizuoka and I would be on familiar ground.
[+34.9km = 239 kilometers total]
MARCH 12th
HALFWAYYYYYY!!!!
It's the ninth day of my journey, and if everything goes as planned, then it is also the official halfway point! It is also my last day in Shizuoka. THANK GOD. I have been in this prefecture for too long!
In any case, today's progress was relatively minimal for no other reason than the fact that the spacing between the net cafes were inconvenient. I only walked for a little more than four hours: I left my friend's place after 9 AM and took my time.
On my way I found the most ridiculous sign on the side of the road. KOALAS, Next 10 KM. What? I am in Japan right?!? I still have no idea why that sign was there.
Flowers were also blooming by the riverside. Finally, signs of spring! I was refreshed and in a good mood. I really didn't need to take any breaks. It would only be a four hour walk today, but I was in no hurry so I took a small detour about halfway to go to Burger King. Yes, Burger King. There should be more of them, but the only one I came across was in the food court of an Apita.
Without so much as an unfriendly breeze I made my way to Hamamatsu. Over another bridge and at the 250km mark!! At this point, my legs and shoulders are used to the daily grind. I'm not as tired when I need to rest, but I do so out of necessity. I probably could have combined three days walk into two if there had been places to stay at the proper intervals. It didn't matter though because everything was good.
Once again I reached my destination just as the sun was setting. The city quickly came alive under the dark blue sky. There must have been a festival event that weekend. Hamamatsu actually felt like a city compared to all the other stops in Shizuoka. That city spirit gave me a boost. I would have loved to explore it, but there was no time for that. I grabbed a snack from Lawson, of course, and took refuge in a Media Cafe Popeye net cafe.
Tomorrow was the day I was waiting for: my return to Aichi.
[+21.9km = 260.9 kilometers total]
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