MARCH 10th
Today started off earlier than most. I left the net cafe before 5 AM, grabbed a few things from the nearest supermarket MaxValu (thankfully open 24 hours!) and began to make my way west as the sun rose behind me. The city roads were wide and clear; it was nice to walk on a clear path.
A couple hours later the road started to go into the mountains. I was not excited about climbing, so when I saw that there was a tunnel ahead of me I was relieved! However, before I could get close enough to enter I saw a sign and a map which displayed a part of the Old Tokaido Route.
I had made a silly promise to myself that if I found parts of the Old Route that I would walk it. It looked like I would be going up the mountain. Thankfully, it wasn't all that big and the trail was marked well. The area was part of a small park. As I went up the trail I noticed there were signs for the Meiji Tunnel. It was technically on a slightly different route, but it sounded more interesting than a shrine.
The trail leading up to the tunnel was deserted. It was only 8 AM at the time. The long tunnel went under a slope in the mountain and it was light with yellow-orange light bulbs. It was kind of dark and interesting, the perfect place to take some pictures. I must have spent at least a half hour there doing poses (break dance style). Only one person passed me on their bike, but I didn't care.
The descent from the mountain took me across a lumber yard and then down into a small neighborhood. I took a rest at the park. The small toilet they had looked like a big tree stump, which drew my attention in the first place. While I was resting my mother so happened to message me and we talked for an hour before I picked up to continue.
Okabe-juku was the next part of the route. It was very clean and had a fresh appeal to it for tourists. The town was nice and small, but as lunch drew closer I began to think of where to rest again. To my luck, there was a Steak Gusto just up the road. I was convinced they didn't exist since I had never seen one, but I had coupons for a meal there so I gladly took up the opportunity. The steak lunch meal came with an all-you-can-eat salad bar. I kept my salad options simple to keep the carbs low, so no dressing, no potato salad or carrots or bread or the like. It was still delicious, and so was the steak!!
After lunch I finally reached the 200km mark on Route 1. Two-fifths of the way! I stopped to take a picture and a lady pulled up to the curb. She asked me where I was going, I said Osaka. She clarified her question and asked where I was going today. I told her to Shimada, and she offered me a ride. I felt awkward declining her invitation, but I wasn't hitchhiking.
"It's a walking trip."
"So, you're not getting in?"
"Yeah. I'm sorry."
Only the smallest part of me wanted to ride, but I had come this far, and besides, my goal wasn't that far away.
The skies were blue and overall the weather that day had been fantastic. I had started out early, so when I reached my destination it was barely evening. I considered pushing on to the next available cafe, but it would have been over three hours away. I killed some time perusing a 100 yen shop and buying a black polyester scarf which could double as a sort of cap, since I lost my knit cap in Hakone. At 5 PM I settled down into another Kaikatsu CLUB and made my self comfortable for the next 12 hours.
[+24.8km= 204 kilometers total]
MARCH 11th
Heading out early again. It was still very dark. I chose to buy breakfast at a Lawson on my way, just a few minutes down the street. I bought some bran rolls, boiled eggs and some water. Finally when the sun had come up I was an hour into my walk through the small town. I stopped at a small park near the river and chowed down. My hands were cold from the morning chill.
The bridge took me across to Kanaya-juku, It seemed like it would be an easy day without too many checkpoints to cross. Well, the reason for that was because there were more mountains and hills. The entrance into the first mountain was up a marked road that was lined with red flags for the temple. I was lured into thinking that would be my only hill to climb, but I was wrong.
Over one mountain and down into a secluded valley with, you guessed it, another mountain in my path. The valley had one road running through it and only a half dozen fields and houses. I dreaded climbing up the other steep slope, but I hoped that once I cleared it I would be safe and clear.
Once again, I was wrong.
The descent was long and winding through an even more secluded area of farm land. Old men and women were burning grass in their fields, some were hanging laundry. It was very quiet. I listened to my Sherlock Holmes audio books to pass the time. It seemed like an eternity before I left those farms and found civilization again: a Family Mart. I needed to use the restroom.
Already two audio books down (each about 40 minutes) and nearly half a day done, I decided to eat lunch at Saizeriya. It was then, as I scrolled through Facebook on my phone, that I realized the date was March 11th, the anniversary of the tsunami in Fukushima. It just so happened that the red shirt I had been wearing with me on this trip was the same shirt I had designed for our fundraiser in University. That shirt has been with me through my biggest adventures in Japan: 2011, my first trip abroad and first time in Japan; 2014, when my friends and I went to the summit of Mt. Fuji to see the sunrise; and now, 2017, as I walk across Japan.
After lunch, the walk was considerably easier and I was away from any mountains. The fields around me were now open under a clear blue sky. By the time I reached Fukuroi City I was tired, but the sun just began to set.
Tonight would be the first night in many that I wouldn't spend alone. A friend who I had met in Tokushima last summer had moved to Shizuoka for work. Conveniently he happened to move to Fukuroi which was right on my route. Four of us, me, my friend, and his two co-workers went to eat Shabu-Shabu. Shabu-Shabu is a Japanese dish where one pot, with one or two soup flavors is set in the middle of the table and you boil the meat and vegetables you want to eat on your own. So much beef~ it was delicious.
I spent the night on my friend's floor, happily stuffed and relieved to have some company. Only one more day in Shizuoka and I would be on familiar ground.
[+34.9km = 239 kilometers total]
MARCH 12th
HALFWAYYYYYY!!!!
It's the ninth day of my journey, and if everything goes as planned, then it is also the official halfway point! It is also my last day in Shizuoka. THANK GOD. I have been in this prefecture for too long!
In any case, today's progress was relatively minimal for no other reason than the fact that the spacing between the net cafes were inconvenient. I only walked for a little more than four hours: I left my friend's place after 9 AM and took my time.
On my way I found the most ridiculous sign on the side of the road. KOALAS, Next 10 KM. What? I am in Japan right?!? I still have no idea why that sign was there.
Flowers were also blooming by the riverside. Finally, signs of spring! I was refreshed and in a good mood. I really didn't need to take any breaks. It would only be a four hour walk today, but I was in no hurry so I took a small detour about halfway to go to Burger King. Yes, Burger King. There should be more of them, but the only one I came across was in the food court of an Apita.
Without so much as an unfriendly breeze I made my way to Hamamatsu. Over another bridge and at the 250km mark!! At this point, my legs and shoulders are used to the daily grind. I'm not as tired when I need to rest, but I do so out of necessity. I probably could have combined three days walk into two if there had been places to stay at the proper intervals. It didn't matter though because everything was good.
Once again I reached my destination just as the sun was setting. The city quickly came alive under the dark blue sky. There must have been a festival event that weekend. Hamamatsu actually felt like a city compared to all the other stops in Shizuoka. That city spirit gave me a boost. I would have loved to explore it, but there was no time for that. I grabbed a snack from Lawson, of course, and took refuge in a Media Cafe Popeye net cafe.
Tomorrow was the day I was waiting for: my return to Aichi.
[+21.9km = 260.9 kilometers total]
Showing posts with label shizuoka. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shizuoka. Show all posts
Monday, March 13, 2017
Walking The TOKAIDO Days 7, 8 & 9
Labels:
2017,
backpacking,
challenge,
experience,
japan,
net cafe,
shizuoka,
tokaido,
travel,
trek
Sunday, March 12, 2017
Walking The TOKAIDO Days 5 & 6
MARCH 8th
Day Five. Today was going to be a short day, since only had to walk about 20 kilometers to reach my daily goal. I was going to stay at another guesthouse, this time near Mt. Fuji. When planning this trip I was surprised how few guesthouses were available on this route, especially when it seems like there are many people who travel this way. I think a lot of people would benefit if they started a guesthouse chain/series that runs along the Tokaido Route. General markers along the trail would also be very welcome.
So, once again, my day out was going to be relatively short. My entire walk from Numazu to Fuji City was marked with Mt. Fuji watching over me. I took my time, and even took a small detour to go stare at the ocean again, so I was having a very good, chill day.
I was actually relieved that there was little walking today because my legs were still sore from the hike. Above all, the back of my calves, right below my knees were so tight. My shoulders were a bit sore as well, and even though there wasn't anything extra in my bag, everything just felt heavy.
My guesthouse for the day was NASUBI Mt. Fuji Backpackers. I arrived around 4pm after stopping to grab groceries at MaxValu because I wanted to cook my meals. Oh man, I am missing on eating food regularly. Food that I make.
I was the only guest at the guesthouse when I arrived, but I learned that I was sharing my room with three other people: it was a 6-bed dormitory, two other guests were from Switzerland, and one from Japan.
With the run of the house to myself I decided to do everything, literally. First I jumped in the shower, and then I threw my clothes in the laundry (washer and dryer for only 400 yen! better than a coin laundry which I was thinking of visiting!) and while the clothes were washing I cooked myself some salmon and ate dinner. While I was eating dinner one of the other guests returned. He was a 50-year old Japanese man who was traveling around taking pictures, so he had gone out to take photos of Mt. Fuji. I talked with him and the guesthouse managers (a lovely couple, they were so chill!!) until they started to make their own dinner. I considered going to bed early because the next day I would have t walk another 7 hours, but fate had something different in mind.
That night a friend of the guesthouse manager's came to visit. He was studying traditional Japanese massage techniques, and had also studied physical therapy. My first thought was "Oh, I could really use a massage..." I actually would like to study massage and/or physical therapy one day because I know many people who I could help with it. While the man treated the Japanese guest, I watched intently and learned alot about his studies. He offered to massage me next, which I was simultaneously gracious for, but also resistant because I KNEW how tight my body was and that it was going to hurt. But eventually I couldn't turn down the offer.
And I'm glad I didn't! The traditional Japanese massage techniques really tapped into muscles and nerve points that I did not know existed, particularly in my neck and shoulders and my head!! It was impossible to completely loosen my shoulders up, but the massage made a considerable difference. After that we ended up talking until after 11 pm about studying massage and his business (so much for sleeping early haha). I can easily say today was the best day since I left Yokohama! Too bad it's my last guesthouse for a while...
[+20.4km = 144.2 kilometers total]
MARCH 9th
Oh boy.
Day six... from the best day, to what turned out to be the most... not worst, but very difficult day.
My day started early. I wanted to leave the guesthouse by 8am because it was going to be a long walk to Shizuoka City. I made and ate my delicious fried egg breakfast before anyone else was awake (except the Japanese guest who stepped out early to take more pictures). My shoulders were feeling much better from the massage, but I could still feel strain in my calf muscles. I was assuming that it was because I needed to drink more water.
Slowly the day began to bring on the challenges. First, the drawstring on my pants was half-retracted into the waistline when I did my laundry. I spent a good 15 minutes or so restring them using a safety pin which I was smart enough to bring along. My head felt strangely calm, as if it knew it was going t be a long day.
I didn't get out of the guesthouse until about 8:40. The guesthouse manager gave me two snacks"for emergency" - they were sweets, and I wanted to turn them down, but I just didn't have the spirit to refuse them. I was determined not to eat them, but I didn't know what I would do with them.
The first couple of hours went well and I was making good time on my walk. As I was walking I could still feel the strain in my calves. My plan was to get a 2L of water and make sure I wasn't dehydrated, but another thought occured to me. Maybe the muscles weren't able to heal fully because I was lacking electrolytes and needed a carb load.
I couldn't reason myself out of it once my brain decided that's what I needed to do. So at lunch I ate tuna with mayo, an avocado and some cheese which I had bought the day before at MaxValu. I had the two little treats as well. Kept walking, ended up going up a mountain again because Route 1 wasn't walkable, and a couple hours later I finally bought my 2L of water... and that custard cookie ice cream.
More walking, then some orange juice and peanuts after a bathroom run at Seven Eleven. Finally, a 'low sugar/carb' piece of chocolate cake by Rizap. It was one of those days where it's like "well, I already ate XX so I might as well eat YY today too and get the craving out of the way". I also had a little ice cream at the net cafe because it was free (I had a feeling when I checked in that I would end up on the floor with the ice cream machine). Soo yeah it was a HIGH carb day, but I figured that it would be good to see how it affects me the next day. Just praying that I don't feel horrible cause I still got to walk!!
By the way, I stayed at Kaikatsu Club just outside Shizuoka City. It was AMAZING. Special ladies only area, yes free ice cream, and a very good price. Who needs hotels? haha
[+35.1km = 179.3 kilometers total]
ON TO DAYS SEVEN, EIGHT, AND NINE >>>>
Day Five. Today was going to be a short day, since only had to walk about 20 kilometers to reach my daily goal. I was going to stay at another guesthouse, this time near Mt. Fuji. When planning this trip I was surprised how few guesthouses were available on this route, especially when it seems like there are many people who travel this way. I think a lot of people would benefit if they started a guesthouse chain/series that runs along the Tokaido Route. General markers along the trail would also be very welcome.
So, once again, my day out was going to be relatively short. My entire walk from Numazu to Fuji City was marked with Mt. Fuji watching over me. I took my time, and even took a small detour to go stare at the ocean again, so I was having a very good, chill day.
I was actually relieved that there was little walking today because my legs were still sore from the hike. Above all, the back of my calves, right below my knees were so tight. My shoulders were a bit sore as well, and even though there wasn't anything extra in my bag, everything just felt heavy.
My guesthouse for the day was NASUBI Mt. Fuji Backpackers. I arrived around 4pm after stopping to grab groceries at MaxValu because I wanted to cook my meals. Oh man, I am missing on eating food regularly. Food that I make.
I was the only guest at the guesthouse when I arrived, but I learned that I was sharing my room with three other people: it was a 6-bed dormitory, two other guests were from Switzerland, and one from Japan.
With the run of the house to myself I decided to do everything, literally. First I jumped in the shower, and then I threw my clothes in the laundry (washer and dryer for only 400 yen! better than a coin laundry which I was thinking of visiting!) and while the clothes were washing I cooked myself some salmon and ate dinner. While I was eating dinner one of the other guests returned. He was a 50-year old Japanese man who was traveling around taking pictures, so he had gone out to take photos of Mt. Fuji. I talked with him and the guesthouse managers (a lovely couple, they were so chill!!) until they started to make their own dinner. I considered going to bed early because the next day I would have t walk another 7 hours, but fate had something different in mind.
That night a friend of the guesthouse manager's came to visit. He was studying traditional Japanese massage techniques, and had also studied physical therapy. My first thought was "Oh, I could really use a massage..." I actually would like to study massage and/or physical therapy one day because I know many people who I could help with it. While the man treated the Japanese guest, I watched intently and learned alot about his studies. He offered to massage me next, which I was simultaneously gracious for, but also resistant because I KNEW how tight my body was and that it was going to hurt. But eventually I couldn't turn down the offer.
And I'm glad I didn't! The traditional Japanese massage techniques really tapped into muscles and nerve points that I did not know existed, particularly in my neck and shoulders and my head!! It was impossible to completely loosen my shoulders up, but the massage made a considerable difference. After that we ended up talking until after 11 pm about studying massage and his business (so much for sleeping early haha). I can easily say today was the best day since I left Yokohama! Too bad it's my last guesthouse for a while...
[+20.4km = 144.2 kilometers total]
MARCH 9th
Oh boy.
Day six... from the best day, to what turned out to be the most... not worst, but very difficult day.
My day started early. I wanted to leave the guesthouse by 8am because it was going to be a long walk to Shizuoka City. I made and ate my delicious fried egg breakfast before anyone else was awake (except the Japanese guest who stepped out early to take more pictures). My shoulders were feeling much better from the massage, but I could still feel strain in my calf muscles. I was assuming that it was because I needed to drink more water.
Slowly the day began to bring on the challenges. First, the drawstring on my pants was half-retracted into the waistline when I did my laundry. I spent a good 15 minutes or so restring them using a safety pin which I was smart enough to bring along. My head felt strangely calm, as if it knew it was going t be a long day.
I didn't get out of the guesthouse until about 8:40. The guesthouse manager gave me two snacks"for emergency" - they were sweets, and I wanted to turn them down, but I just didn't have the spirit to refuse them. I was determined not to eat them, but I didn't know what I would do with them.
The first couple of hours went well and I was making good time on my walk. As I was walking I could still feel the strain in my calves. My plan was to get a 2L of water and make sure I wasn't dehydrated, but another thought occured to me. Maybe the muscles weren't able to heal fully because I was lacking electrolytes and needed a carb load.
I couldn't reason myself out of it once my brain decided that's what I needed to do. So at lunch I ate tuna with mayo, an avocado and some cheese which I had bought the day before at MaxValu. I had the two little treats as well. Kept walking, ended up going up a mountain again because Route 1 wasn't walkable, and a couple hours later I finally bought my 2L of water... and that custard cookie ice cream.
More walking, then some orange juice and peanuts after a bathroom run at Seven Eleven. Finally, a 'low sugar/carb' piece of chocolate cake by Rizap. It was one of those days where it's like "well, I already ate XX so I might as well eat YY today too and get the craving out of the way". I also had a little ice cream at the net cafe because it was free (I had a feeling when I checked in that I would end up on the floor with the ice cream machine). Soo yeah it was a HIGH carb day, but I figured that it would be good to see how it affects me the next day. Just praying that I don't feel horrible cause I still got to walk!!
By the way, I stayed at Kaikatsu Club just outside Shizuoka City. It was AMAZING. Special ladies only area, yes free ice cream, and a very good price. Who needs hotels? haha
[+35.1km = 179.3 kilometers total]
ON TO DAYS SEVEN, EIGHT, AND NINE >>>>
Saturday, February 4, 2017
Walking the Old Tokaido (1)
I have an announcement!
This March, 2017, I am going to go on an adventure. I wanted to challenge myself and do something within my own capabilities - by my own power. As I am living in Japan, I wanted to do something not too far from home (Nagoya) but it had to be something that had a clear start and finish.
At first I thought, okay I'll do a marathon, it's physically challenging and I can train for it. But a few things turned me off to the idea - running around the city doesn't really get me anywhere, and more importantly I didn't want to possibly injure myself. My legs get enough abuse from dancing, and with even running 3-5km/day I could feel the tension in my knee and ankle. That meant it had to be something with a lower impact... like walking.
This idea occurred to me last summer, and it was by perfect chance that I saw a Japanese TV Program (YOUは何をしに日本へ?) that featured a woman from Australia who was traveling across part of Japan on the Old Tokaido Road. It seemed like the perfect idea, and after a couple weeks of contemplation I settled on the idea in August.
Since then I've been planning on and off, mapping my route, and "training" by getting used to long distance walking. Now there is less than a month left and the real preparation begins!!
Tokyo (Nihombashi) to Osaka (Koraibashi), 516km, estimated 20+ days.
*the original route is 53 stations to Kyoto, but since I'm already walking forever, I decided to added 4 more stations to reach Osaka :)
This March, 2017, I am going to go on an adventure. I wanted to challenge myself and do something within my own capabilities - by my own power. As I am living in Japan, I wanted to do something not too far from home (Nagoya) but it had to be something that had a clear start and finish.
At first I thought, okay I'll do a marathon, it's physically challenging and I can train for it. But a few things turned me off to the idea - running around the city doesn't really get me anywhere, and more importantly I didn't want to possibly injure myself. My legs get enough abuse from dancing, and with even running 3-5km/day I could feel the tension in my knee and ankle. That meant it had to be something with a lower impact... like walking.
This idea occurred to me last summer, and it was by perfect chance that I saw a Japanese TV Program (YOUは何をしに日本へ?) that featured a woman from Australia who was traveling across part of Japan on the Old Tokaido Road. It seemed like the perfect idea, and after a couple weeks of contemplation I settled on the idea in August.
Since then I've been planning on and off, mapping my route, and "training" by getting used to long distance walking. Now there is less than a month left and the real preparation begins!!
Tokyo (Nihombashi) to Osaka (Koraibashi), 516km, estimated 20+ days.
*the original route is 53 stations to Kyoto, but since I'm already walking forever, I decided to added 4 more stations to reach Osaka :)
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