MARCH 10th
Today started off earlier than most. I left the net cafe before 5 AM, grabbed a few things from the nearest supermarket MaxValu (thankfully open 24 hours!) and began to make my way west as the sun rose behind me. The city roads were wide and clear; it was nice to walk on a clear path.
A couple hours later the road started to go into the mountains. I was not excited about climbing, so when I saw that there was a tunnel ahead of me I was relieved! However, before I could get close enough to enter I saw a sign and a map which displayed a part of the Old Tokaido Route.
I had made a silly promise to myself that if I found parts of the Old Route that I would walk it. It looked like I would be going up the mountain. Thankfully, it wasn't all that big and the trail was marked well. The area was part of a small park. As I went up the trail I noticed there were signs for the Meiji Tunnel. It was technically on a slightly different route, but it sounded more interesting than a shrine.
The trail leading up to the tunnel was deserted. It was only 8 AM at the time. The long tunnel went under a slope in the mountain and it was light with yellow-orange light bulbs. It was kind of dark and interesting, the perfect place to take some pictures. I must have spent at least a half hour there doing poses (break dance style). Only one person passed me on their bike, but I didn't care.
The descent from the mountain took me across a lumber yard and then down into a small neighborhood. I took a rest at the park. The small toilet they had looked like a big tree stump, which drew my attention in the first place. While I was resting my mother so happened to message me and we talked for an hour before I picked up to continue.
Okabe-juku was the next part of the route. It was very clean and had a fresh appeal to it for tourists. The town was nice and small, but as lunch drew closer I began to think of where to rest again. To my luck, there was a Steak Gusto just up the road. I was convinced they didn't exist since I had never seen one, but I had coupons for a meal there so I gladly took up the opportunity. The steak lunch meal came with an all-you-can-eat salad bar. I kept my salad options simple to keep the carbs low, so no dressing, no potato salad or carrots or bread or the like. It was still delicious, and so was the steak!!
After lunch I finally reached the 200km mark on Route 1. Two-fifths of the way! I stopped to take a picture and a lady pulled up to the curb. She asked me where I was going, I said Osaka. She clarified her question and asked where I was going today. I told her to Shimada, and she offered me a ride. I felt awkward declining her invitation, but I wasn't hitchhiking.
"It's a walking trip."
"So, you're not getting in?"
"Yeah. I'm sorry."
Only the smallest part of me wanted to ride, but I had come this far, and besides, my goal wasn't that far away.
The skies were blue and overall the weather that day had been fantastic. I had started out early, so when I reached my destination it was barely evening. I considered pushing on to the next available cafe, but it would have been over three hours away. I killed some time perusing a 100 yen shop and buying a black polyester scarf which could double as a sort of cap, since I lost my knit cap in Hakone. At 5 PM I settled down into another Kaikatsu CLUB and made my self comfortable for the next 12 hours.
[+24.8km= 204 kilometers total]
MARCH 11th
Heading out early again. It was still very dark. I chose to buy breakfast at a Lawson on my way, just a few minutes down the street. I bought some bran rolls, boiled eggs and some water. Finally when the sun had come up I was an hour into my walk through the small town. I stopped at a small park near the river and chowed down. My hands were cold from the morning chill.
The bridge took me across to Kanaya-juku, It seemed like it would be an easy day without too many checkpoints to cross. Well, the reason for that was because there were more mountains and hills. The entrance into the first mountain was up a marked road that was lined with red flags for the temple. I was lured into thinking that would be my only hill to climb, but I was wrong.
Over one mountain and down into a secluded valley with, you guessed it, another mountain in my path. The valley had one road running through it and only a half dozen fields and houses. I dreaded climbing up the other steep slope, but I hoped that once I cleared it I would be safe and clear.
Once again, I was wrong.
The descent was long and winding through an even more secluded area of farm land. Old men and women were burning grass in their fields, some were hanging laundry. It was very quiet. I listened to my Sherlock Holmes audio books to pass the time. It seemed like an eternity before I left those farms and found civilization again: a Family Mart. I needed to use the restroom.
Already two audio books down (each about 40 minutes) and nearly half a day done, I decided to eat lunch at Saizeriya. It was then, as I scrolled through Facebook on my phone, that I realized the date was March 11th, the anniversary of the tsunami in Fukushima. It just so happened that the red shirt I had been wearing with me on this trip was the same shirt I had designed for our fundraiser in University. That shirt has been with me through my biggest adventures in Japan: 2011, my first trip abroad and first time in Japan; 2014, when my friends and I went to the summit of Mt. Fuji to see the sunrise; and now, 2017, as I walk across Japan.
After lunch, the walk was considerably easier and I was away from any mountains. The fields around me were now open under a clear blue sky. By the time I reached Fukuroi City I was tired, but the sun just began to set.
Tonight would be the first night in many that I wouldn't spend alone. A friend who I had met in Tokushima last summer had moved to Shizuoka for work. Conveniently he happened to move to Fukuroi which was right on my route. Four of us, me, my friend, and his two co-workers went to eat Shabu-Shabu. Shabu-Shabu is a Japanese dish where one pot, with one or two soup flavors is set in the middle of the table and you boil the meat and vegetables you want to eat on your own. So much beef~ it was delicious.
I spent the night on my friend's floor, happily stuffed and relieved to have some company. Only one more day in Shizuoka and I would be on familiar ground.
[+34.9km = 239 kilometers total]
MARCH 12th
HALFWAYYYYYY!!!!
It's the ninth day of my journey, and if everything goes as planned, then it is also the official halfway point! It is also my last day in Shizuoka. THANK GOD. I have been in this prefecture for too long!
In any case, today's progress was relatively minimal for no other reason than the fact that the spacing between the net cafes were inconvenient. I only walked for a little more than four hours: I left my friend's place after 9 AM and took my time.
On my way I found the most ridiculous sign on the side of the road. KOALAS, Next 10 KM. What? I am in Japan right?!? I still have no idea why that sign was there.
Flowers were also blooming by the riverside. Finally, signs of spring! I was refreshed and in a good mood. I really didn't need to take any breaks. It would only be a four hour walk today, but I was in no hurry so I took a small detour about halfway to go to Burger King. Yes, Burger King. There should be more of them, but the only one I came across was in the food court of an Apita.
Without so much as an unfriendly breeze I made my way to Hamamatsu. Over another bridge and at the 250km mark!! At this point, my legs and shoulders are used to the daily grind. I'm not as tired when I need to rest, but I do so out of necessity. I probably could have combined three days walk into two if there had been places to stay at the proper intervals. It didn't matter though because everything was good.
Once again I reached my destination just as the sun was setting. The city quickly came alive under the dark blue sky. There must have been a festival event that weekend. Hamamatsu actually felt like a city compared to all the other stops in Shizuoka. That city spirit gave me a boost. I would have loved to explore it, but there was no time for that. I grabbed a snack from Lawson, of course, and took refuge in a Media Cafe Popeye net cafe.
Tomorrow was the day I was waiting for: my return to Aichi.
[+21.9km = 260.9 kilometers total]
Showing posts with label japan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label japan. Show all posts
Monday, March 13, 2017
Sunday, March 12, 2017
Walking The TOKAIDO Days 5 & 6
MARCH 8th
Day Five. Today was going to be a short day, since only had to walk about 20 kilometers to reach my daily goal. I was going to stay at another guesthouse, this time near Mt. Fuji. When planning this trip I was surprised how few guesthouses were available on this route, especially when it seems like there are many people who travel this way. I think a lot of people would benefit if they started a guesthouse chain/series that runs along the Tokaido Route. General markers along the trail would also be very welcome.
So, once again, my day out was going to be relatively short. My entire walk from Numazu to Fuji City was marked with Mt. Fuji watching over me. I took my time, and even took a small detour to go stare at the ocean again, so I was having a very good, chill day.
I was actually relieved that there was little walking today because my legs were still sore from the hike. Above all, the back of my calves, right below my knees were so tight. My shoulders were a bit sore as well, and even though there wasn't anything extra in my bag, everything just felt heavy.
My guesthouse for the day was NASUBI Mt. Fuji Backpackers. I arrived around 4pm after stopping to grab groceries at MaxValu because I wanted to cook my meals. Oh man, I am missing on eating food regularly. Food that I make.
I was the only guest at the guesthouse when I arrived, but I learned that I was sharing my room with three other people: it was a 6-bed dormitory, two other guests were from Switzerland, and one from Japan.
With the run of the house to myself I decided to do everything, literally. First I jumped in the shower, and then I threw my clothes in the laundry (washer and dryer for only 400 yen! better than a coin laundry which I was thinking of visiting!) and while the clothes were washing I cooked myself some salmon and ate dinner. While I was eating dinner one of the other guests returned. He was a 50-year old Japanese man who was traveling around taking pictures, so he had gone out to take photos of Mt. Fuji. I talked with him and the guesthouse managers (a lovely couple, they were so chill!!) until they started to make their own dinner. I considered going to bed early because the next day I would have t walk another 7 hours, but fate had something different in mind.
That night a friend of the guesthouse manager's came to visit. He was studying traditional Japanese massage techniques, and had also studied physical therapy. My first thought was "Oh, I could really use a massage..." I actually would like to study massage and/or physical therapy one day because I know many people who I could help with it. While the man treated the Japanese guest, I watched intently and learned alot about his studies. He offered to massage me next, which I was simultaneously gracious for, but also resistant because I KNEW how tight my body was and that it was going to hurt. But eventually I couldn't turn down the offer.
And I'm glad I didn't! The traditional Japanese massage techniques really tapped into muscles and nerve points that I did not know existed, particularly in my neck and shoulders and my head!! It was impossible to completely loosen my shoulders up, but the massage made a considerable difference. After that we ended up talking until after 11 pm about studying massage and his business (so much for sleeping early haha). I can easily say today was the best day since I left Yokohama! Too bad it's my last guesthouse for a while...
[+20.4km = 144.2 kilometers total]
MARCH 9th
Oh boy.
Day six... from the best day, to what turned out to be the most... not worst, but very difficult day.
My day started early. I wanted to leave the guesthouse by 8am because it was going to be a long walk to Shizuoka City. I made and ate my delicious fried egg breakfast before anyone else was awake (except the Japanese guest who stepped out early to take more pictures). My shoulders were feeling much better from the massage, but I could still feel strain in my calf muscles. I was assuming that it was because I needed to drink more water.
Slowly the day began to bring on the challenges. First, the drawstring on my pants was half-retracted into the waistline when I did my laundry. I spent a good 15 minutes or so restring them using a safety pin which I was smart enough to bring along. My head felt strangely calm, as if it knew it was going t be a long day.
I didn't get out of the guesthouse until about 8:40. The guesthouse manager gave me two snacks"for emergency" - they were sweets, and I wanted to turn them down, but I just didn't have the spirit to refuse them. I was determined not to eat them, but I didn't know what I would do with them.
The first couple of hours went well and I was making good time on my walk. As I was walking I could still feel the strain in my calves. My plan was to get a 2L of water and make sure I wasn't dehydrated, but another thought occured to me. Maybe the muscles weren't able to heal fully because I was lacking electrolytes and needed a carb load.
I couldn't reason myself out of it once my brain decided that's what I needed to do. So at lunch I ate tuna with mayo, an avocado and some cheese which I had bought the day before at MaxValu. I had the two little treats as well. Kept walking, ended up going up a mountain again because Route 1 wasn't walkable, and a couple hours later I finally bought my 2L of water... and that custard cookie ice cream.
More walking, then some orange juice and peanuts after a bathroom run at Seven Eleven. Finally, a 'low sugar/carb' piece of chocolate cake by Rizap. It was one of those days where it's like "well, I already ate XX so I might as well eat YY today too and get the craving out of the way". I also had a little ice cream at the net cafe because it was free (I had a feeling when I checked in that I would end up on the floor with the ice cream machine). Soo yeah it was a HIGH carb day, but I figured that it would be good to see how it affects me the next day. Just praying that I don't feel horrible cause I still got to walk!!
By the way, I stayed at Kaikatsu Club just outside Shizuoka City. It was AMAZING. Special ladies only area, yes free ice cream, and a very good price. Who needs hotels? haha
[+35.1km = 179.3 kilometers total]
ON TO DAYS SEVEN, EIGHT, AND NINE >>>>
Day Five. Today was going to be a short day, since only had to walk about 20 kilometers to reach my daily goal. I was going to stay at another guesthouse, this time near Mt. Fuji. When planning this trip I was surprised how few guesthouses were available on this route, especially when it seems like there are many people who travel this way. I think a lot of people would benefit if they started a guesthouse chain/series that runs along the Tokaido Route. General markers along the trail would also be very welcome.
So, once again, my day out was going to be relatively short. My entire walk from Numazu to Fuji City was marked with Mt. Fuji watching over me. I took my time, and even took a small detour to go stare at the ocean again, so I was having a very good, chill day.
I was actually relieved that there was little walking today because my legs were still sore from the hike. Above all, the back of my calves, right below my knees were so tight. My shoulders were a bit sore as well, and even though there wasn't anything extra in my bag, everything just felt heavy.
My guesthouse for the day was NASUBI Mt. Fuji Backpackers. I arrived around 4pm after stopping to grab groceries at MaxValu because I wanted to cook my meals. Oh man, I am missing on eating food regularly. Food that I make.
I was the only guest at the guesthouse when I arrived, but I learned that I was sharing my room with three other people: it was a 6-bed dormitory, two other guests were from Switzerland, and one from Japan.
With the run of the house to myself I decided to do everything, literally. First I jumped in the shower, and then I threw my clothes in the laundry (washer and dryer for only 400 yen! better than a coin laundry which I was thinking of visiting!) and while the clothes were washing I cooked myself some salmon and ate dinner. While I was eating dinner one of the other guests returned. He was a 50-year old Japanese man who was traveling around taking pictures, so he had gone out to take photos of Mt. Fuji. I talked with him and the guesthouse managers (a lovely couple, they were so chill!!) until they started to make their own dinner. I considered going to bed early because the next day I would have t walk another 7 hours, but fate had something different in mind.
That night a friend of the guesthouse manager's came to visit. He was studying traditional Japanese massage techniques, and had also studied physical therapy. My first thought was "Oh, I could really use a massage..." I actually would like to study massage and/or physical therapy one day because I know many people who I could help with it. While the man treated the Japanese guest, I watched intently and learned alot about his studies. He offered to massage me next, which I was simultaneously gracious for, but also resistant because I KNEW how tight my body was and that it was going to hurt. But eventually I couldn't turn down the offer.
And I'm glad I didn't! The traditional Japanese massage techniques really tapped into muscles and nerve points that I did not know existed, particularly in my neck and shoulders and my head!! It was impossible to completely loosen my shoulders up, but the massage made a considerable difference. After that we ended up talking until after 11 pm about studying massage and his business (so much for sleeping early haha). I can easily say today was the best day since I left Yokohama! Too bad it's my last guesthouse for a while...
[+20.4km = 144.2 kilometers total]
MARCH 9th
Oh boy.
Day six... from the best day, to what turned out to be the most... not worst, but very difficult day.
My day started early. I wanted to leave the guesthouse by 8am because it was going to be a long walk to Shizuoka City. I made and ate my delicious fried egg breakfast before anyone else was awake (except the Japanese guest who stepped out early to take more pictures). My shoulders were feeling much better from the massage, but I could still feel strain in my calf muscles. I was assuming that it was because I needed to drink more water.
Slowly the day began to bring on the challenges. First, the drawstring on my pants was half-retracted into the waistline when I did my laundry. I spent a good 15 minutes or so restring them using a safety pin which I was smart enough to bring along. My head felt strangely calm, as if it knew it was going t be a long day.
I didn't get out of the guesthouse until about 8:40. The guesthouse manager gave me two snacks"for emergency" - they were sweets, and I wanted to turn them down, but I just didn't have the spirit to refuse them. I was determined not to eat them, but I didn't know what I would do with them.
The first couple of hours went well and I was making good time on my walk. As I was walking I could still feel the strain in my calves. My plan was to get a 2L of water and make sure I wasn't dehydrated, but another thought occured to me. Maybe the muscles weren't able to heal fully because I was lacking electrolytes and needed a carb load.
I couldn't reason myself out of it once my brain decided that's what I needed to do. So at lunch I ate tuna with mayo, an avocado and some cheese which I had bought the day before at MaxValu. I had the two little treats as well. Kept walking, ended up going up a mountain again because Route 1 wasn't walkable, and a couple hours later I finally bought my 2L of water... and that custard cookie ice cream.
More walking, then some orange juice and peanuts after a bathroom run at Seven Eleven. Finally, a 'low sugar/carb' piece of chocolate cake by Rizap. It was one of those days where it's like "well, I already ate XX so I might as well eat YY today too and get the craving out of the way". I also had a little ice cream at the net cafe because it was free (I had a feeling when I checked in that I would end up on the floor with the ice cream machine). Soo yeah it was a HIGH carb day, but I figured that it would be good to see how it affects me the next day. Just praying that I don't feel horrible cause I still got to walk!!
By the way, I stayed at Kaikatsu Club just outside Shizuoka City. It was AMAZING. Special ladies only area, yes free ice cream, and a very good price. Who needs hotels? haha
[+35.1km = 179.3 kilometers total]
ON TO DAYS SEVEN, EIGHT, AND NINE >>>>
Friday, March 10, 2017
Walking The TOKAIDO Days 3 & 4
MARCH 6th, DAY THREE *pictures will be added later
After writing my last post I was able to get an hour of peaceful sleep. I left the net cafe by 7am, pleasantly refreshed by the bright morning sky (compared to the dull and dark cave I had slept in).
I started making my way back to Route 1. On the way I did find another 24 hour net cafe called the Hours. It didn't appear in my Google search, so I thought there was only one option in Hiratsuka - one whose website wasn't working. I was stressed a bit because of the possibility that I wouldn't have a place to stay, and lo and behold there was another option. Strike two Google Maps.
When I left the city it was a little sunny, but clouds were already creeping in. I stopped on the way at a Lawson to get breakfast. This time I tried out their low carb bran pancakes. I was surprised to think that they were too sweet, but they were made with agave syrup, and had some more syrup and whip cream or something between them. It was a nice treat, since I had been craving pancakes for a long time.
The rain was light and misty for the next few hours. My route took me near the ocean, which I kept looking at longingly between the houses until I crossed a narrow stairwell down to the beach. It was a good time for a break, I figured, so I took a minor detour and went down to the beach around 10am. Despite the light rain and wind, being near the ocean was very calming. Before I knew it 45 minutes had passed of me just staring at the waves. The rain had also let up at this point so I thought it was going to be a good day. I had only 4 more ours or so to my destination, a guesthouse in Hakone, and it wasn't even noon yet.
Unfortunately, after I left the beach, things steadily got harder. The rain began to fall steadily, not large heavy drops, but a constant blanket of light rain. I took another break at noon for lunch, hoping that the KFC would have grilled chicken, but to my disappointment they only had their original recipe fried chicken. Not the best for this low carb, healthy fat lifestyle I'm trying to commit to, but at least it would be some good protein and I could rest my legs.
I forgot to mention on my way to KFC I saw another possible Tokaido walker on the opposite side of the road; it was a man, possibly in his 40s or 50s, heading in the same direction as I. He seemed tired from going up the incline, but my legs were still fresh at the time and I overtook him. I noticed he kept glancing at me, but when I looked back he would turn away, so we never made contact. Oh well, if we are meant to meet, then we will.
I managed to stick around KFC for almost an hour. The rain wouldn't let up, so I decided to try out the plastic shoe covers that I had bought from Donkihote. It took some getting used to, but I adjusted to the feel of the rubber bands around my legs and the slightly drag of the plastic, then I was well on my way. I also covered my bag in its waterproof cover and put on my cap and hood. I didn't take out the poncho this time.
The rain continued, falling harder as the route began to incline up towards Hakone. I was grateful that it was only a slight incline most of the way, but I had a strong notion that I was in for a long walk. Usually I enjoy the rain, but having to walk in it with 20lbs on my back, essentially up a mountain, was not preferable. Also, the approach was not very well defined in several parts. Route 1 became unwalkable, but the way to the walking route wasn't easy to find. Just unneccessary added stress.
Somehow I managed to stay on the right path (here I will thank Google) and I entered the Hakone area around 4pm. Perfect timing because the guesthouse check-in was available from that time. I remember thinking that everything seemed closer on the map, but maybe it just felt longer because it was all uphill. In any case, I grabbed a few grocery items from the 7i convenience store on the way up the mountain, including eggs, 2L of water, and some peppered beef strips. Slightly drenched I arrived at Guesthouse Azito at just after 4pm.
Let me give a shout out to the staff at Guesthouse Azito for being awesome and kind. The place had a very nice atmosphere and instead of a shared room, the rooms were private - just a bed and a little space, but private nonetheless. I wasted no time in dumping all my stuff in my room and claiming it as my own for the next half a day.
It was still only the early evening, but it was a rainy day, so instead of walking around the area (which was really beautiful, but I had already walked ALOT anyway) I I took a shower, hung up my only slightly wet clothes (yay water proof/quick dry stuff!) and cooked my dinner. No other guests were around, so I privately ate up my salad with avocado, eggs, peppered beef and cheese, and then I went to bed.
[+26.5km = 89.5kilometers total]
MARCH 7th, DAY FOUR
I slept from 7pm until about 5am. No regrets. I wanted to start my day early because I knew it would be about a 7 hour walk to my next destination in Numazu. Before anyone else was awake, I quickly slipped out and headed to the nearest convenience store (only 3 in the area from what I saw, and no supermarkets). This time it was Family Mart. I knew they had some kind of low carb stuff, which I had never tried before, so I sought them out.
Rizap has released many low sugar products, oddly enough mostly sweets. I wanted yogurt but settled for trying their cheese cake, and also grabbed aWalnut Roll. Of course, the cheese cake had artificial sweeteners and wasn't as low carb as I was aiming for, but I figured I'm in for a long walk, so it wouldn't hurt. Nevertheless it was sweet - no surprise there. I'm glad to say that I have not been craving sweets since I changed my eating habits, but I feel that it's good to have the options available, if and when I just want a treat. The Walnut Roll was delicious, perfect, I would definitely get that again.
Enough about food! Haha. Back to the grind.
As I'm writing this, I am starting to feel tired again just from the thought... It was a LONG day. As soon as I left the guesthouse I noticed that the path was going up hill. Everytime I thought it would level out or start to go down, I turned the corner and there was another incline.
For the most part, the route along 732 is actually ON the road, as in on the edge where there is a "designated walking space". It is NOT enough space. There is literally a white line on the edge of the road, and half the time foliage has taken it over. That goes on for long enough to where you start to think any sort of real designated walking area is better than feeling like you shouldn't be walking on the road with (occasional) cars going by.
This area of Hakone is also one of the locations where the Old Tokaido Route has been preserved or reconstructed. For the record, it's literally a hike through the mountains. You are either climbing up an uneven stone path, which I enjoy because it's a little more interesting, or you are going up several flights of stairs, which I did not enjoy. There are also a couple river crossings that will have you think "This is awesome, but am I supposed to be here??"
Climbing the mountain was rough for me. My brain made sure to remind me off the weight on my back, the strain in my legs and the slightest change in body temperature. It was mentally draining more than anything.
However, on the road I happened to meet an old man heading in the opposite direction of me. He too was walking the Tokaido, though he had started in Kyoto. He seemed to be pressing on well, and when I asked how long he had been walking he said about 16 days. 16?! That was faster than I expected. But he was also staying in business hotels for about 5000 yen a night, which I'm sure is a big comfort. We wished each other luck on the remainder of our trips. That meeting was just the bit of push I needed to will myself up the mountain: if an old man can do it, so can I.
If and when you survive the hike up the mountain, don't expect much of a view. The trail eventually descends a bit and takes you to the shores of Lake Ashi. The little resort area was booming with people despite the chilly weather.
And it was cold. I was hot and cold and everything in between while going up the mountain so I ended up with my jacket around my waist, long undershirt and tshirt, and a full set of knit cap, neck warmer and mittens... and sunglasses. Other people were not so well-dressed - I questioned what kind of humans they were, but apparantely I am the odd one out.
I walked along the shore of the lake looking for a place to have lunch, but nearly every shop was either selling soba noodles, or curry and rice. I was about to settle for karage (fried chicken) when I saw a 7i at the end of the road. You may be wondering why I am not enjoying the "local" cuisine or going into restaurants more and there's two obvious reasons for that: 1) to save money, and 2) low carb means no bread, rice, noodles, sweets, etc. for the most part. Besides, I live in Japan, if I really want something, I can get it almost anywhere.
So, I bought my lunch from 7i, ate it in the waiting room for the boat rides because it was too cold for me to eat outside, and then with nothing else to do continued along the path. I really hoped that it would continue to decline, but nope, not yet. There were a few more hills, up and down, roads with no sidewalks, unclear signs which route to take, I lost my knit cap and hairband too - stress stress stress - but FINALLY signs for Mishima City meant I was really getting out of the mountains.
I have never been happier to walk into the outer limits of a city. Civilization! Sidewalks! Marked streets! How lucky we are.
The walk through Mishima, though welcome as it was easy to follow, was still a good two hours or so from my destination in Numazu. On the way I stopped at Coco's, which is like a steak house that I have never been to before, and had some beef hamburger steak.
After dinner and a quick rest, I made the final push to Numazu. To my surprise there was a SEIYU (Japan's Walmart, literally) and grabbed a few groceries. It was mostly cheese, some marked down spinach and a couple avocados. My lodgings for the night were at Media Cafe POPEYE in Numazu. Since my legs were so tired, and I DID climb a mountain and all, I chose the 12 hour night pack in the massage chair booth.
It wasn't easy to sleep in the chair that couldn't fully recline, but I managed to sleep quite a bit. I think the massaging helped with that. In more than one way I hoped that was the last mountain I had to climb this trip.
[+34.3km = 123.8 kilometers total]
ON TO DAY FIVE & SIX!! >>>>
After writing my last post I was able to get an hour of peaceful sleep. I left the net cafe by 7am, pleasantly refreshed by the bright morning sky (compared to the dull and dark cave I had slept in).
I started making my way back to Route 1. On the way I did find another 24 hour net cafe called the Hours. It didn't appear in my Google search, so I thought there was only one option in Hiratsuka - one whose website wasn't working. I was stressed a bit because of the possibility that I wouldn't have a place to stay, and lo and behold there was another option. Strike two Google Maps.
When I left the city it was a little sunny, but clouds were already creeping in. I stopped on the way at a Lawson to get breakfast. This time I tried out their low carb bran pancakes. I was surprised to think that they were too sweet, but they were made with agave syrup, and had some more syrup and whip cream or something between them. It was a nice treat, since I had been craving pancakes for a long time.
The rain was light and misty for the next few hours. My route took me near the ocean, which I kept looking at longingly between the houses until I crossed a narrow stairwell down to the beach. It was a good time for a break, I figured, so I took a minor detour and went down to the beach around 10am. Despite the light rain and wind, being near the ocean was very calming. Before I knew it 45 minutes had passed of me just staring at the waves. The rain had also let up at this point so I thought it was going to be a good day. I had only 4 more ours or so to my destination, a guesthouse in Hakone, and it wasn't even noon yet.
Unfortunately, after I left the beach, things steadily got harder. The rain began to fall steadily, not large heavy drops, but a constant blanket of light rain. I took another break at noon for lunch, hoping that the KFC would have grilled chicken, but to my disappointment they only had their original recipe fried chicken. Not the best for this low carb, healthy fat lifestyle I'm trying to commit to, but at least it would be some good protein and I could rest my legs.
I forgot to mention on my way to KFC I saw another possible Tokaido walker on the opposite side of the road; it was a man, possibly in his 40s or 50s, heading in the same direction as I. He seemed tired from going up the incline, but my legs were still fresh at the time and I overtook him. I noticed he kept glancing at me, but when I looked back he would turn away, so we never made contact. Oh well, if we are meant to meet, then we will.
I managed to stick around KFC for almost an hour. The rain wouldn't let up, so I decided to try out the plastic shoe covers that I had bought from Donkihote. It took some getting used to, but I adjusted to the feel of the rubber bands around my legs and the slightly drag of the plastic, then I was well on my way. I also covered my bag in its waterproof cover and put on my cap and hood. I didn't take out the poncho this time.
The rain continued, falling harder as the route began to incline up towards Hakone. I was grateful that it was only a slight incline most of the way, but I had a strong notion that I was in for a long walk. Usually I enjoy the rain, but having to walk in it with 20lbs on my back, essentially up a mountain, was not preferable. Also, the approach was not very well defined in several parts. Route 1 became unwalkable, but the way to the walking route wasn't easy to find. Just unneccessary added stress.
Somehow I managed to stay on the right path (here I will thank Google) and I entered the Hakone area around 4pm. Perfect timing because the guesthouse check-in was available from that time. I remember thinking that everything seemed closer on the map, but maybe it just felt longer because it was all uphill. In any case, I grabbed a few grocery items from the 7i convenience store on the way up the mountain, including eggs, 2L of water, and some peppered beef strips. Slightly drenched I arrived at Guesthouse Azito at just after 4pm.
Let me give a shout out to the staff at Guesthouse Azito for being awesome and kind. The place had a very nice atmosphere and instead of a shared room, the rooms were private - just a bed and a little space, but private nonetheless. I wasted no time in dumping all my stuff in my room and claiming it as my own for the next half a day.
It was still only the early evening, but it was a rainy day, so instead of walking around the area (which was really beautiful, but I had already walked ALOT anyway) I I took a shower, hung up my only slightly wet clothes (yay water proof/quick dry stuff!) and cooked my dinner. No other guests were around, so I privately ate up my salad with avocado, eggs, peppered beef and cheese, and then I went to bed.
[+26.5km = 89.5kilometers total]
MARCH 7th, DAY FOUR
I slept from 7pm until about 5am. No regrets. I wanted to start my day early because I knew it would be about a 7 hour walk to my next destination in Numazu. Before anyone else was awake, I quickly slipped out and headed to the nearest convenience store (only 3 in the area from what I saw, and no supermarkets). This time it was Family Mart. I knew they had some kind of low carb stuff, which I had never tried before, so I sought them out.
Rizap has released many low sugar products, oddly enough mostly sweets. I wanted yogurt but settled for trying their cheese cake, and also grabbed aWalnut Roll. Of course, the cheese cake had artificial sweeteners and wasn't as low carb as I was aiming for, but I figured I'm in for a long walk, so it wouldn't hurt. Nevertheless it was sweet - no surprise there. I'm glad to say that I have not been craving sweets since I changed my eating habits, but I feel that it's good to have the options available, if and when I just want a treat. The Walnut Roll was delicious, perfect, I would definitely get that again.
Enough about food! Haha. Back to the grind.
As I'm writing this, I am starting to feel tired again just from the thought... It was a LONG day. As soon as I left the guesthouse I noticed that the path was going up hill. Everytime I thought it would level out or start to go down, I turned the corner and there was another incline.
For the most part, the route along 732 is actually ON the road, as in on the edge where there is a "designated walking space". It is NOT enough space. There is literally a white line on the edge of the road, and half the time foliage has taken it over. That goes on for long enough to where you start to think any sort of real designated walking area is better than feeling like you shouldn't be walking on the road with (occasional) cars going by.
This area of Hakone is also one of the locations where the Old Tokaido Route has been preserved or reconstructed. For the record, it's literally a hike through the mountains. You are either climbing up an uneven stone path, which I enjoy because it's a little more interesting, or you are going up several flights of stairs, which I did not enjoy. There are also a couple river crossings that will have you think "This is awesome, but am I supposed to be here??"
Climbing the mountain was rough for me. My brain made sure to remind me off the weight on my back, the strain in my legs and the slightest change in body temperature. It was mentally draining more than anything.
However, on the road I happened to meet an old man heading in the opposite direction of me. He too was walking the Tokaido, though he had started in Kyoto. He seemed to be pressing on well, and when I asked how long he had been walking he said about 16 days. 16?! That was faster than I expected. But he was also staying in business hotels for about 5000 yen a night, which I'm sure is a big comfort. We wished each other luck on the remainder of our trips. That meeting was just the bit of push I needed to will myself up the mountain: if an old man can do it, so can I.
If and when you survive the hike up the mountain, don't expect much of a view. The trail eventually descends a bit and takes you to the shores of Lake Ashi. The little resort area was booming with people despite the chilly weather.
And it was cold. I was hot and cold and everything in between while going up the mountain so I ended up with my jacket around my waist, long undershirt and tshirt, and a full set of knit cap, neck warmer and mittens... and sunglasses. Other people were not so well-dressed - I questioned what kind of humans they were, but apparantely I am the odd one out.
I walked along the shore of the lake looking for a place to have lunch, but nearly every shop was either selling soba noodles, or curry and rice. I was about to settle for karage (fried chicken) when I saw a 7i at the end of the road. You may be wondering why I am not enjoying the "local" cuisine or going into restaurants more and there's two obvious reasons for that: 1) to save money, and 2) low carb means no bread, rice, noodles, sweets, etc. for the most part. Besides, I live in Japan, if I really want something, I can get it almost anywhere.
So, I bought my lunch from 7i, ate it in the waiting room for the boat rides because it was too cold for me to eat outside, and then with nothing else to do continued along the path. I really hoped that it would continue to decline, but nope, not yet. There were a few more hills, up and down, roads with no sidewalks, unclear signs which route to take, I lost my knit cap and hairband too - stress stress stress - but FINALLY signs for Mishima City meant I was really getting out of the mountains.
I have never been happier to walk into the outer limits of a city. Civilization! Sidewalks! Marked streets! How lucky we are.
The walk through Mishima, though welcome as it was easy to follow, was still a good two hours or so from my destination in Numazu. On the way I stopped at Coco's, which is like a steak house that I have never been to before, and had some beef hamburger steak.
After dinner and a quick rest, I made the final push to Numazu. To my surprise there was a SEIYU (Japan's Walmart, literally) and grabbed a few groceries. It was mostly cheese, some marked down spinach and a couple avocados. My lodgings for the night were at Media Cafe POPEYE in Numazu. Since my legs were so tired, and I DID climb a mountain and all, I chose the 12 hour night pack in the massage chair booth.
It wasn't easy to sleep in the chair that couldn't fully recline, but I managed to sleep quite a bit. I think the massaging helped with that. In more than one way I hoped that was the last mountain I had to climb this trip.
[+34.3km = 123.8 kilometers total]
ON TO DAY FIVE & SIX!! >>>>
Thursday, February 16, 2017
Two weeks out! Training for walking the Tokaido!!
Training to walk doesn't really sound like something that needs to be done. However, when you're going to be pushing your body to walk 5 to 8 hours a day for almost three weeks straight, then I think you need to know what you're in for.
Since December I started walking home from work, which is about 2 hours and 45 minutes. I quickly got used to this distance and time, but I realized that I needed to walk much much more. Just because I could walk for two hours then rest at home and be fine, did not mean that I could do an 8 hour day of walking.
My first challenge was to, of course, go a longer distance. I chose to walk from my home in Nagoya to Mikawa Anjo Station (I used to dance there). The walk itself was about 5 hours and 45 minutes. I knew from my walks home that I needed to stop and rest every 2 to 3 hours or I would risk completely burning out. Thankfully, most of the way down to Mikawa Anjo also follows Route One, aka the Tokaido Road. I stopped at a McDonald's near Zengo Station, which was about 3 hours from Nagoya, rested my legs for an hour, refueled and continued walking with no problem. Since I was able to stay with friends that night, the next morning I walked my way back to Nagoya. Two days of walking almost 6 hours? Good. (Including my break, it was a total of 7 hours, 1pm-8pm, both ways)
My second challenge was carry the weight. Walking freely or with a light bag is one thing. But having to carry everyday essentials for long distances is another thing entirely. Naturally your body will undergo more stress, especially your back, shoulders and legs. So, I bought myself a nice 45L trekking backpack with waist and chest straps. The size is just enough to carry an extra pair of shoes, sleeping clothes, survival essentials (I'm not going to be camping, but things like toilet paper, minor first aid, food, water, etc.) and some light reading materials without being so heavy or making me think I can carry more. When I would go to work I would have very little to carry, but I got in the habit of always having it on my back. So, on the weekends when I would do my grocery shopping I would load up that bag and carry it home for 40 minutes. Sometimes I would need an extra shopping bag to distribute the weight. Most recently I managed to cram a week's worth of groceries in and it was quite heavy. I weighed the bag when I got home to find that it was 11kg (25 pounds). That was an eye-opener for me because that is the exact amount of weight (fat) that I intend to lose (at some point, hopefully this year, not during this trip, are you crazy?)
The next challenge was more mental in a way, how to use your time wisely. Basically, what can I do while I'm walking? I can't imagine three weeks of walk, eat, sleep, repeat. All that time, and what would I have to show for it? How could I use it the most effectively? I do not plan on listening to music, all day everyday. Thankfully, early on I did try walking home without listening to any music whatsoever. It was fine, I can do that. I will talk to myself (in and out of my head) during most of it, but I don't need music to function. Even so, there is only so much conversation I can have with myself. I thought it over, since I had ample time to think, and decided I would try to study more during my trip. I would take study materials with me, put language apps on my phone for when I take breaks, download audio books and language courses and just TRY to mentally improve somehow.
Okay. So now we're walking more, getting used to the extra weight, and training our brain as well. But I'm still sleeping well every night. I won't have that luxury during my actual trip. I do have a few plans to stay with either friends or at guesthouses along the way (surprisingly very few), but for the most part I will be catching my Zs in 24-hour net cafes. Massage chair please!
Challenge number four, sleep. It is very important. And not just sleep, but how do I spend those hours by myself, in an unfamiliar place, at night when I shouldn't be walking. This challenge more or less happened on a whim. I walked to Mikawa Anjo again, from work this time, and found that all my friends were to busy to meet me. That's when the idea came that I should take the opportunity to treat that night like a night on the trip. Challenge accepted.
I skipped the last train, and headed to Gusto (a cafe / restaurant chain, many of which are open 24 hours). There, from midnight to about 5 a.m. I sat, had a small meal, enjoyed the drink bar (tons of veggie-fruit juice and tea), and killed time looking through message cards that I had received from students.
I didn't plan to sleep then. One of my ideas was to continue to Okazaki (2 hours away) or Gamagori (4 hours away) and sleep briefly at my friend's house, then start to return to Nagoya. Unfortunately, both friends were busy and could not accommodate my sudden request. I was reluctant to simply to back home, but I had no other options at the time. So with no sleep, I left Gusto at 5 am and walked back to Nagoya, arriving at noon.
On the trip I would probably visit the net cafe first to sleep for 3-6 hours, and then grab food and head on to the next location. Note to self, we can't drink things with cream anymore, please remember that. Also, be careful with coffee, and if you're going to drink many glasses of juice, make sure you know where the restrooms are!
The last and most recent challenge was 100% commitment. I needed to day to literally commit to just walking to my destination and spending it as if it was a real day out. These other days I would either meet friends, or do something a little off the plan. I needed to get my mind into this 100%.
Yesterday, February 16th, I woke up and made the decision to walk 8 hours. It wouldn't be a straight 8 hours out, but I would walk a new part of the Tokaido (heading west from Nagoya) 4 hours to Yatomi, and then walk back home. I loaded up my pack with what I thought would be the usual haul - sleeping clothes, extra shoes, light study materials, lunch, and 2.5 liters of water. I also had my winter gear and other necessities too.
I left the house at 11:30 a.m., later than I had intended, but I still had time to walk my route. I quickly realized two things - it was warm and it was sunny. My hat and sunglasses were right next to the door, and even though they were on my master list of things to take, I was like "I'll be back home tonight. I probably won't need them." Well, no, it was sunny, and I had to walk into the sun for 4 hours.
As for the heat, it was about 11-12 degress Celsius, with little wind, so it was warmer than the recent days. Because I caught a little frostbite (great job!) I was more focused on being warm when I left the house. I ended up taking off my neck warmer, and changing my long t-shirt to a short one (still over my long compression heat gear, and under my relatively thick jacket). At least I was prepared in that way.
I also took food with me. Of course, I can't prepare my meals on the road, but I can stock up on a few things. The question then became where can I eat the food I carry with me? I can't go sit in a restaurant and eat it. If it's a food court, then no problem. If it's food like onigiri, then I can eat it as I walk. But I would still need to rest my legs somewhere. For this trip, I knew that there was a Sushiro (conveyor belt sushi) on my route at about 2 hours and 30 minutes in. If nothing else, I could just stop there to rest. Actually there are TONS of restaurants along Route One, obviously because it is a main highway now. I got lucky though. Just as I was double-checking my map to check my distance covered I noticed that there was a park ahead of me.
I took my first break at the park. There was a nice clean restroom, but there was no toilet paper, as is expected in most public restrooms. No problem, part of my gear is a roll of toilet paper for such occasions. So I rested at the park for maybe a half an hour, ate my lunch and continued on.
Again, keeping in mind that this was a training day, I could have set my goal anywhere. For example, I entered Yatomi CITY about 30-40 minutes before reaching Yatomi STATION, which was my goal. I had to commit to that "extra" time, but I did consider stopping. On the real trip, that is not an option, I will not be going backwards.
After that, everything went smoothly. I went to the station, then started my way back towards Nagoya, stopping at a Gusto to rest for a couple hours, and picked up for another four hour walk home. I stopped at the park again to rest my legs and use the restroom. Only the lights in the men's side worked. Not sure if the sensors were out or what, but it was pitch black. Thankfully, I had a light! Take that public restroom!
I also talked to my mom on the phone for the last hour of the walk. It was a good distraction. When I got home I was done. Not dead tired, but I was hungry again and my feet were exhausted. I made dinner, stretched and sat back for a bit before finally going to bed.
I guess the Real Final Challenge is Don't train too much. It's not fun, let's be honest. I could do a lot with my day, or nothing if I felt like it, but I have committed myself to this adventure. It's a bit depressing to walk 4 or 5 hours down your route, only to have to turn around and go back home. That's why I can't wait for this actual trip to go down. Only moving forward.
The body is capable of doing amazing things, but you have to treat it right in order to do so. I can't burn myself out with "training" for the actual ordeal. As long as I am mentally ready, it will work out. I know what I need to do. I am strong enough to do it. Train hard, but train smart.
There are still two weeks to go before I head to Tokyo and begin my trek. Who knows what I'll convince myself to do by then haha.
Until next time~
Take care.
Since December I started walking home from work, which is about 2 hours and 45 minutes. I quickly got used to this distance and time, but I realized that I needed to walk much much more. Just because I could walk for two hours then rest at home and be fine, did not mean that I could do an 8 hour day of walking.
My first challenge was to, of course, go a longer distance. I chose to walk from my home in Nagoya to Mikawa Anjo Station (I used to dance there). The walk itself was about 5 hours and 45 minutes. I knew from my walks home that I needed to stop and rest every 2 to 3 hours or I would risk completely burning out. Thankfully, most of the way down to Mikawa Anjo also follows Route One, aka the Tokaido Road. I stopped at a McDonald's near Zengo Station, which was about 3 hours from Nagoya, rested my legs for an hour, refueled and continued walking with no problem. Since I was able to stay with friends that night, the next morning I walked my way back to Nagoya. Two days of walking almost 6 hours? Good. (Including my break, it was a total of 7 hours, 1pm-8pm, both ways)
My second challenge was carry the weight. Walking freely or with a light bag is one thing. But having to carry everyday essentials for long distances is another thing entirely. Naturally your body will undergo more stress, especially your back, shoulders and legs. So, I bought myself a nice 45L trekking backpack with waist and chest straps. The size is just enough to carry an extra pair of shoes, sleeping clothes, survival essentials (I'm not going to be camping, but things like toilet paper, minor first aid, food, water, etc.) and some light reading materials without being so heavy or making me think I can carry more. When I would go to work I would have very little to carry, but I got in the habit of always having it on my back. So, on the weekends when I would do my grocery shopping I would load up that bag and carry it home for 40 minutes. Sometimes I would need an extra shopping bag to distribute the weight. Most recently I managed to cram a week's worth of groceries in and it was quite heavy. I weighed the bag when I got home to find that it was 11kg (25 pounds). That was an eye-opener for me because that is the exact amount of weight (fat) that I intend to lose (at some point, hopefully this year, not during this trip, are you crazy?)The next challenge was more mental in a way, how to use your time wisely. Basically, what can I do while I'm walking? I can't imagine three weeks of walk, eat, sleep, repeat. All that time, and what would I have to show for it? How could I use it the most effectively? I do not plan on listening to music, all day everyday. Thankfully, early on I did try walking home without listening to any music whatsoever. It was fine, I can do that. I will talk to myself (in and out of my head) during most of it, but I don't need music to function. Even so, there is only so much conversation I can have with myself. I thought it over, since I had ample time to think, and decided I would try to study more during my trip. I would take study materials with me, put language apps on my phone for when I take breaks, download audio books and language courses and just TRY to mentally improve somehow.
Okay. So now we're walking more, getting used to the extra weight, and training our brain as well. But I'm still sleeping well every night. I won't have that luxury during my actual trip. I do have a few plans to stay with either friends or at guesthouses along the way (surprisingly very few), but for the most part I will be catching my Zs in 24-hour net cafes. Massage chair please!
Challenge number four, sleep. It is very important. And not just sleep, but how do I spend those hours by myself, in an unfamiliar place, at night when I shouldn't be walking. This challenge more or less happened on a whim. I walked to Mikawa Anjo again, from work this time, and found that all my friends were to busy to meet me. That's when the idea came that I should take the opportunity to treat that night like a night on the trip. Challenge accepted.
I didn't plan to sleep then. One of my ideas was to continue to Okazaki (2 hours away) or Gamagori (4 hours away) and sleep briefly at my friend's house, then start to return to Nagoya. Unfortunately, both friends were busy and could not accommodate my sudden request. I was reluctant to simply to back home, but I had no other options at the time. So with no sleep, I left Gusto at 5 am and walked back to Nagoya, arriving at noon.
On the trip I would probably visit the net cafe first to sleep for 3-6 hours, and then grab food and head on to the next location. Note to self, we can't drink things with cream anymore, please remember that. Also, be careful with coffee, and if you're going to drink many glasses of juice, make sure you know where the restrooms are!
The last and most recent challenge was 100% commitment. I needed to day to literally commit to just walking to my destination and spending it as if it was a real day out. These other days I would either meet friends, or do something a little off the plan. I needed to get my mind into this 100%.
Yesterday, February 16th, I woke up and made the decision to walk 8 hours. It wouldn't be a straight 8 hours out, but I would walk a new part of the Tokaido (heading west from Nagoya) 4 hours to Yatomi, and then walk back home. I loaded up my pack with what I thought would be the usual haul - sleeping clothes, extra shoes, light study materials, lunch, and 2.5 liters of water. I also had my winter gear and other necessities too.
I left the house at 11:30 a.m., later than I had intended, but I still had time to walk my route. I quickly realized two things - it was warm and it was sunny. My hat and sunglasses were right next to the door, and even though they were on my master list of things to take, I was like "I'll be back home tonight. I probably won't need them." Well, no, it was sunny, and I had to walk into the sun for 4 hours.
As for the heat, it was about 11-12 degress Celsius, with little wind, so it was warmer than the recent days. Because I caught a little frostbite (great job!) I was more focused on being warm when I left the house. I ended up taking off my neck warmer, and changing my long t-shirt to a short one (still over my long compression heat gear, and under my relatively thick jacket). At least I was prepared in that way.
I also took food with me. Of course, I can't prepare my meals on the road, but I can stock up on a few things. The question then became where can I eat the food I carry with me? I can't go sit in a restaurant and eat it. If it's a food court, then no problem. If it's food like onigiri, then I can eat it as I walk. But I would still need to rest my legs somewhere. For this trip, I knew that there was a Sushiro (conveyor belt sushi) on my route at about 2 hours and 30 minutes in. If nothing else, I could just stop there to rest. Actually there are TONS of restaurants along Route One, obviously because it is a main highway now. I got lucky though. Just as I was double-checking my map to check my distance covered I noticed that there was a park ahead of me.
I took my first break at the park. There was a nice clean restroom, but there was no toilet paper, as is expected in most public restrooms. No problem, part of my gear is a roll of toilet paper for such occasions. So I rested at the park for maybe a half an hour, ate my lunch and continued on.
Again, keeping in mind that this was a training day, I could have set my goal anywhere. For example, I entered Yatomi CITY about 30-40 minutes before reaching Yatomi STATION, which was my goal. I had to commit to that "extra" time, but I did consider stopping. On the real trip, that is not an option, I will not be going backwards.
After that, everything went smoothly. I went to the station, then started my way back towards Nagoya, stopping at a Gusto to rest for a couple hours, and picked up for another four hour walk home. I stopped at the park again to rest my legs and use the restroom. Only the lights in the men's side worked. Not sure if the sensors were out or what, but it was pitch black. Thankfully, I had a light! Take that public restroom!
I also talked to my mom on the phone for the last hour of the walk. It was a good distraction. When I got home I was done. Not dead tired, but I was hungry again and my feet were exhausted. I made dinner, stretched and sat back for a bit before finally going to bed.
I guess the Real Final Challenge is Don't train too much. It's not fun, let's be honest. I could do a lot with my day, or nothing if I felt like it, but I have committed myself to this adventure. It's a bit depressing to walk 4 or 5 hours down your route, only to have to turn around and go back home. That's why I can't wait for this actual trip to go down. Only moving forward.
The body is capable of doing amazing things, but you have to treat it right in order to do so. I can't burn myself out with "training" for the actual ordeal. As long as I am mentally ready, it will work out. I know what I need to do. I am strong enough to do it. Train hard, but train smart.
There are still two weeks to go before I head to Tokyo and begin my trek. Who knows what I'll convince myself to do by then haha.
Until next time~
Take care.
Saturday, February 4, 2017
Walking the Old Tokaido (1)
I have an announcement!
This March, 2017, I am going to go on an adventure. I wanted to challenge myself and do something within my own capabilities - by my own power. As I am living in Japan, I wanted to do something not too far from home (Nagoya) but it had to be something that had a clear start and finish.
At first I thought, okay I'll do a marathon, it's physically challenging and I can train for it. But a few things turned me off to the idea - running around the city doesn't really get me anywhere, and more importantly I didn't want to possibly injure myself. My legs get enough abuse from dancing, and with even running 3-5km/day I could feel the tension in my knee and ankle. That meant it had to be something with a lower impact... like walking.
This idea occurred to me last summer, and it was by perfect chance that I saw a Japanese TV Program (YOUは何をしに日本へ?) that featured a woman from Australia who was traveling across part of Japan on the Old Tokaido Road. It seemed like the perfect idea, and after a couple weeks of contemplation I settled on the idea in August.
Since then I've been planning on and off, mapping my route, and "training" by getting used to long distance walking. Now there is less than a month left and the real preparation begins!!
Tokyo (Nihombashi) to Osaka (Koraibashi), 516km, estimated 20+ days.
*the original route is 53 stations to Kyoto, but since I'm already walking forever, I decided to added 4 more stations to reach Osaka :)
This March, 2017, I am going to go on an adventure. I wanted to challenge myself and do something within my own capabilities - by my own power. As I am living in Japan, I wanted to do something not too far from home (Nagoya) but it had to be something that had a clear start and finish.
At first I thought, okay I'll do a marathon, it's physically challenging and I can train for it. But a few things turned me off to the idea - running around the city doesn't really get me anywhere, and more importantly I didn't want to possibly injure myself. My legs get enough abuse from dancing, and with even running 3-5km/day I could feel the tension in my knee and ankle. That meant it had to be something with a lower impact... like walking.
This idea occurred to me last summer, and it was by perfect chance that I saw a Japanese TV Program (YOUは何をしに日本へ?) that featured a woman from Australia who was traveling across part of Japan on the Old Tokaido Road. It seemed like the perfect idea, and after a couple weeks of contemplation I settled on the idea in August.
Since then I've been planning on and off, mapping my route, and "training" by getting used to long distance walking. Now there is less than a month left and the real preparation begins!!
Tokyo (Nihombashi) to Osaka (Koraibashi), 516km, estimated 20+ days.
*the original route is 53 stations to Kyoto, but since I'm already walking forever, I decided to added 4 more stations to reach Osaka :)
Friday, January 20, 2017
2017, Sunny Zero
This year I will be doing some new things here in Japan, including traveling, so I decided to revive this blog and share those events here. I will try to recap some previous experiences and trips as well.
For example,
-which prefectures have I been to? (I want to go to all of them one day)
-my brothers' visit to Japan (aka Deluxe Tour Japan Winter 2016)
-working at a Junior High School
-my community and life in Nagoya
-what's next?
...
Also, re-adapting the blog name from JAPAN 320 to (JAPAN) Sunny Zero (3 is pronunced san, two is ni ... etc.)
Saturday, December 24, 2016
Deluxe Tour Japan Winter 2016 (Part Four: YOKOHAMA, Day Three)
(*This blog entry was written a few weeks after the trip, but I changed the post-date for organizational reasons~ ^^)
December 24th, Day Three, YOKOHAMA
Today started off early, but we took our time actually getting ready and leaving the Guest House. On the way to the station we stopped at Lawson's for breakfast. (No ice cream this time! haha) We grabbed a few onigiri, breads and tea. There was also a flavor of Cheetos that I had never seen before, Garlic Butter; sounds delicious right? So we grabbed them as well.
We ate our onigiri and sampled the Cheetos (delicious as expected) as we walked to Kamata Station. The weather was great. There was no sign of rain or even a cloud in the sky. From Kamata Station we took the JR Line to Sakuragicho Station. Now we were in Yokohama, the port city. I just remember being taken back by all the blue! The sky, the ocean - it was a perfect day. Shout out to the lone guy chilling and just reading his newspaper on the grass. Why not?
Today's main destination was the Cup Noodles Museum. Not only is it a museum that presents the full history of what we know today as "Cup Noodles", starting with its creation during the War, but there is also a hands-on Cup Noodles Factory.
I'm not going to lie, with all the hype about Cup Noodles, and all the innovation that has stemmed from it, I was expecting the exterior of the Museum itself to be more... eye-catching. There's modern art for you, simple.
So the outside wasn't much to look at. However, the entire inside of the museum was covered with Cup Noodle mascots and modern art. Everything was a strong white and red motif, very simple, very clean. And not surprisingly crowded. We purchased our entry tickets, 500 yen each and received our time slot for the "MY CUP NOODLES" Factory. The bulk of the people were gathered on the 3rd floor, constructing their own Cup Noodle, or waiting in the cue. Our time slot was 11:00~11:30.
There are actually two working areas on the 3rd floor. One is the MY CUP NOODLES Factory and the other is the Chicken Ramen Factory. At the Chicken Ramen Factory you experience making your own Noodles from scratch. However, you cannot just arrive on the day and decide to participate. Most reservations for the Chicken Ramen Factory are taken 3-months in advance.
For a good 10 minutes we were waiting at the front of the cue line that started at 11 o'clock. All the while watching people move into the other line towards the MY CUP NOODLES. Turns out, yes, we were in the wrong cue, so we quickly slipped over and got into the correct line. (My fault for not properly observing the situation and posting pictures to Facebook, I know.)
In any case, at the MY CUP NOODLES Factory you purchase your cup for 300 yen and then your group is guided to a table. With your blank, empty cup, you now have time to decorate it with the markers provided. Get creative! Just remember to stay within the red lines and mark the date!
Now you have a personally designed cup! It's time to put in the noodles and toppings. The noodles are placed on a belt and the cup is placed over them so they fit perfectly. No crooked noodles here. That orange and blue mess is my cup.... It wasn't half bad BEFORE I added to much blue and there was no going back. (And I'm the art major *shakes head*)
Once the noodles are in your cup(s) then it's time to choose your flavorings! One soup stock and four toppings per cup. There are four soups to choose from, including the regular Chicken Ramen, Chili, Tomato, and Curry. There are also twelve toppings in total, such as shrimp, egg, chicken, cheese, garlic, kimchi, green onion, corn... and so on.
All of us surprisingly chose shrimp! The color palettes are relatively the same too.
After your toppings are all set, it's time to seal the cup. You get the official paper lid, and then the cup is put into a plastic which will vacuum seal itself as it goes through an oven.
The rest is up to you! Grab your cup, a balloon bag and a string and make yourself a nice souvenir to take home. They recommend eating it within a month, but I have a feeling most people preserve it forever. (I have decided to enjoy mine as I write this blog. Chili cheese garlic shrimp for the win!)
As much as I hope to avoid crowded places, I can't help the fact that all the "tourist" spots are always crowded. Chinatown was no exception. Far from it. The streets were so packed that navigating was a chore, especially with full backpacks. I noticed that most people were lined up for nikuman, which is a meat but usually made with pork. None of us eat pork, so that was off the menu. I was sure that there was another option somewhere.
We first found these sesame donuts with anko, red bean paste inside. It was a good snack, but we needed something more.
Aside from the meat buns, we did find some shrimp dumplings, but I was still determined there was more. I have had all beef meat buns before and they were so good!! Unfortunately, we didn't come across any beef meat buns, but there was a place that had coconut buns. Hmm, that sounds tasty. So for only 250 yen each we grabbed a coconut bun and a "peach" bun (disclaimer, peach buns are still only filled with anko, they are called peach buns because the outside is colored pink to look like a peach).
It was sometime after 2 p.m. when we left Chinatown. I reserved a bus to take us back to Nagoya, so we had to be at Shinjuku Station by 5:45. On our way to the station we remembered the Cheetos we bought that morning. Did we finish eating them? As we tried to remember what happened, my brother's eyes widened, "Um, I think I threw them out with the garbage." Noooo! No more Cheetos...
We rode the JR Line to Tokyo Station and went to grab our luggage (which was when I realized it was not a one-time charge, but 600 yen per day). Once we had our luggage with us, we headed straight to Shinjuku with time to spare.
I'm glad we had that extra time because Shinjuku Station is just huge and confusing. First we tried to find a restaurant to chill at and eat to wait out the two hours, but everywhere we wanted to go was either full, or could not accommodate us and our luggage. Eventually we decided to grab food from the nearest convenient store, which surprisingly wasn't so near, and we waited at the bus station. The sign of the station looks like a zombie film to me haha.
It had been nice, almost warm weather all day, but when evening fell, so did the temperature. Our bus ended up being late due to traffic and we had to wait in the cold. However, we were able to finally relax on the bus as it drove us back to Nagoya.
By the time we arrived at Nagoya station it was almost midnight, so we caught the last train to my place. I live in a simple 1K, so I didn't have much to offer. Thankfully, my friend lent me his air mattress, and I had bought an extra bed set for myself before the trip. One brother passed out right away, while the other kept me company as I unpacked the goods they brought for me from home.
No surprise, tomorrow is another early day. I was glad to be home, even for just the night.
<<PART THREE: TOKYO, DAY TWO PART FIVE: OKAZAKI, DAY FOUR>>
December 24th, Day Three, YOKOHAMA
Today started off early, but we took our time actually getting ready and leaving the Guest House. On the way to the station we stopped at Lawson's for breakfast. (No ice cream this time! haha) We grabbed a few onigiri, breads and tea. There was also a flavor of Cheetos that I had never seen before, Garlic Butter; sounds delicious right? So we grabbed them as well.
We ate our onigiri and sampled the Cheetos (delicious as expected) as we walked to Kamata Station. The weather was great. There was no sign of rain or even a cloud in the sky. From Kamata Station we took the JR Line to Sakuragicho Station. Now we were in Yokohama, the port city. I just remember being taken back by all the blue! The sky, the ocean - it was a perfect day. Shout out to the lone guy chilling and just reading his newspaper on the grass. Why not?
Today's main destination was the Cup Noodles Museum. Not only is it a museum that presents the full history of what we know today as "Cup Noodles", starting with its creation during the War, but there is also a hands-on Cup Noodles Factory.
I'm not going to lie, with all the hype about Cup Noodles, and all the innovation that has stemmed from it, I was expecting the exterior of the Museum itself to be more... eye-catching. There's modern art for you, simple.
So the outside wasn't much to look at. However, the entire inside of the museum was covered with Cup Noodle mascots and modern art. Everything was a strong white and red motif, very simple, very clean. And not surprisingly crowded. We purchased our entry tickets, 500 yen each and received our time slot for the "MY CUP NOODLES" Factory. The bulk of the people were gathered on the 3rd floor, constructing their own Cup Noodle, or waiting in the cue. Our time slot was 11:00~11:30.
There are actually two working areas on the 3rd floor. One is the MY CUP NOODLES Factory and the other is the Chicken Ramen Factory. At the Chicken Ramen Factory you experience making your own Noodles from scratch. However, you cannot just arrive on the day and decide to participate. Most reservations for the Chicken Ramen Factory are taken 3-months in advance.
For a good 10 minutes we were waiting at the front of the cue line that started at 11 o'clock. All the while watching people move into the other line towards the MY CUP NOODLES. Turns out, yes, we were in the wrong cue, so we quickly slipped over and got into the correct line. (My fault for not properly observing the situation and posting pictures to Facebook, I know.)
In any case, at the MY CUP NOODLES Factory you purchase your cup for 300 yen and then your group is guided to a table. With your blank, empty cup, you now have time to decorate it with the markers provided. Get creative! Just remember to stay within the red lines and mark the date!
Now you have a personally designed cup! It's time to put in the noodles and toppings. The noodles are placed on a belt and the cup is placed over them so they fit perfectly. No crooked noodles here. That orange and blue mess is my cup.... It wasn't half bad BEFORE I added to much blue and there was no going back. (And I'm the art major *shakes head*)
Once the noodles are in your cup(s) then it's time to choose your flavorings! One soup stock and four toppings per cup. There are four soups to choose from, including the regular Chicken Ramen, Chili, Tomato, and Curry. There are also twelve toppings in total, such as shrimp, egg, chicken, cheese, garlic, kimchi, green onion, corn... and so on.
After your toppings are all set, it's time to seal the cup. You get the official paper lid, and then the cup is put into a plastic which will vacuum seal itself as it goes through an oven.
By this time it was nearly noon. We finished walking around the rest of the museum, which included a short animation about Cup Noodles history, and while it would have been interesting to have lunch at the Cup Noodle Bazaar on the 4th floor (featuring noodles from around the world), we were not willing to line up at the time. I actually had a different idea in mind for our lunch.
We left the museum and started to head back towards the city, passing the famous Red Brick Warehouses on the way. It's another nice location for a day out at the port, but that was not where we would have our lunch. We continued walking and soon found our way to Yokohama's other popular attraction - Chinatown.
As much as I hope to avoid crowded places, I can't help the fact that all the "tourist" spots are always crowded. Chinatown was no exception. Far from it. The streets were so packed that navigating was a chore, especially with full backpacks. I noticed that most people were lined up for nikuman, which is a meat but usually made with pork. None of us eat pork, so that was off the menu. I was sure that there was another option somewhere.
We first found these sesame donuts with anko, red bean paste inside. It was a good snack, but we needed something more.
It just so happened that the place we bought our buns from was right across from a BEEF and CHEESE Gyoza place! Score!! We ordered one set, 4 pieces, to try them out. If you like burgers, you can imagine the taste I bet. I would definitely get them again, but not to share! We shared all the food we bought, so we didn't really eat properly, but it was great to try all the different treats. I recommend sharing food on trips, and don't be afraid to get seconds!
It was sometime after 2 p.m. when we left Chinatown. I reserved a bus to take us back to Nagoya, so we had to be at Shinjuku Station by 5:45. On our way to the station we remembered the Cheetos we bought that morning. Did we finish eating them? As we tried to remember what happened, my brother's eyes widened, "Um, I think I threw them out with the garbage." Noooo! No more Cheetos...
We rode the JR Line to Tokyo Station and went to grab our luggage (which was when I realized it was not a one-time charge, but 600 yen per day). Once we had our luggage with us, we headed straight to Shinjuku with time to spare.
It had been nice, almost warm weather all day, but when evening fell, so did the temperature. Our bus ended up being late due to traffic and we had to wait in the cold. However, we were able to finally relax on the bus as it drove us back to Nagoya.
By the time we arrived at Nagoya station it was almost midnight, so we caught the last train to my place. I live in a simple 1K, so I didn't have much to offer. Thankfully, my friend lent me his air mattress, and I had bought an extra bed set for myself before the trip. One brother passed out right away, while the other kept me company as I unpacked the goods they brought for me from home.
No surprise, tomorrow is another early day. I was glad to be home, even for just the night.
<<PART THREE: TOKYO, DAY TWO PART FIVE: OKAZAKI, DAY FOUR>>
Friday, December 23, 2016
Deluxe Tour Japan Winter 2016 (Part Three: TOKYO, Day Two)
(*This blog was written a few weeks after the trip, but I changed the post-date for organizational reasons~ ^^)
December 23rd, Day Two, TOKYO
We woke up well-rested in the comfy hotel beds at about 7 a.m. (I actually didn't sleep so pleasantly, but that's nothing for you to worry about). For breakfast, we decided to stop at the nearby supermarket around the corner, which was a small AEON (store chain). I was pointing out various foods and snacks that my brothers would have to try during their trip, and their logic was, why not now?
What could have been a healthy breakfast was now... a 3 piece onigiri set, chocolate chip melon bread, yukimi daifuku (ice cream wrapped in mochi), yakipurin (similar to a custard), anman (a bun filled with sweet azuki beans), and Gari Gari Kun (a soda flavored popsicle, yes more ice cream). This was shared by my two brothers, while I (who had bowel issues in the morning) opted for the aojiru (green smoothie) mixed with soy milk.
After breakfast, which was quickly dealt with in our room, using a spare chair as a table, we packed up and headed for the station at around 8:30. I knew, based on my super plan, that we would be going ALL-AROUND Tokyo today. It would normally cost a lot to jump on the subway for every commute, but given the distances we would be traveling it was not feasible to walk.
Tokyo Travel Advice #1, Get a rail pass!!
There are 24-, 36- and 72-hour passes available for the Tokyo Metro, the TOEI Line (the other subway), or a combination of both. And 24-hour doesn't mean one day, it means from 9 a.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, so it's actually a really good deal if you time it right! AND a 24-hour pass on the Tokyo Metro is only 600 yen (most trips on the subway range from 170-240 yen, depending on the distance).
Tokyo Travel Advice #2, Luggage Lockers!!
If you're not staying at the same hotel for the duration of your stay, then you want to put your heavy luggage somewhere safe, but also convenient. Depending on the size of the locker, it will cost 300 to 600 yen. Over-sized luggage can also be claimed at the Travel Service Counters located in Tokyo and Shinjuku stations, at 600 yen a piece. You can keep your luggage stored away for up to 3 days in the lockers, but you will have to claim it before closing if you drop it off at a service counter. For the record, the locker price is per day.
Almost all stations have lockers, and any of the bigger stations are usually accommodating for large luggage as well. I also recommend that you plan which station you want to use so that you don't end up making extra trips. It was my first time, so I didn't realize that there was a surplus of lockers. We left ours in Tokyo, but I later realized that Shinjuku (where we would depart from by bus) would have been more convenient.
Now, it's just past 9 a.m. and our sightseeing officially starts with a trip to...
BUNKYO CIVIC CENTER, Korakuen Station, Marunouchi Line
Using our Metro Pass, we hopped on the Marunouchi Line from Tokyo station to Korakuen. It's not a very well known stop, but if you do your research you'll find that the station is right next to the Bunkyo Civic Center. Again, maybe you haven't heard of it. However, it is one of the few locations in Tokyo that has a FREE observation deck. Just take the elevator up to the 52nd floor and get a 270 degree panorama view of the city, including the new SkyTree. On a clear day, and with a very nice zoom lens, you can also see Mt. Fuji to the west between the skyscrapers.
We didn't spend long at the observatory because you can only take so many pictures! There was still much to see... We went down to the basement floor and hopped on the Metro, once again riding the Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro Station.
POKEMON CENTER MEGA, Ikebukuro Station, Marunouchi Line
Ikebukuro - the first place that I had truly visited on my first trip to Japan in 2011. The name brought back many memories for me, but unfortunately we wouldn't be walking down memory lane. I had a particular destination in mind to appease our inner child.
Who doesn't love Pokemon? There are Pokemon Centers located all over Japan, but the one located in Ikebukuro is currently the largest! We had to check it out for ourselves.
Pokeballs line the escalator nearest the store!! I told my brother to look excited, haha.
It was PACKED. The 23rd also happened to be a public holiday, so everyone and their brother decided to come to this store. The line literally wrapped around the store, so I'm sure the cue would have taken over an hour.
It was my first trip to a Pokemon Center in a long time, so I did not know about these adorable new Pikachu designs!!! I wanted them so bad, but did I want to wait in that line? No. I would wait for the next Pokemon Center...
I'm going to take a leap and say that the mascot for the POKEMON CENTER MEGA is Charizard.
Despite all of Tokyo's Pokemon Lovers gathering in the store and making it impossible for us to comfortably browse, it gave us an idea of what to look forward to. As the clock was nearing noon, we left the department store and headed back to the station.
Our next destination would be the well-known Harajuku.
HARAJUKU & MEIJI SHRINE, Meiji Jingu Mae, Fukutoshin Line
From one big crowd to another, that's the city for you. Now, there are a couple lines that will take you from Ikebukuro to the Harajuku area, the most immediate would be the JR Yamanote Line. (If you have a Japan Rail Pass, then you should be taking all the JRs!!) However, we had the Metro Pass, so we took the Fukutoshin Line to Meiji Jingu Mae Station.
Leaving the station, we were still a good ways from Harajuku station but the streets were packed. We actually approached the famous Takeshita Dori from the opposite side. Sometimes I wonder why I brought them to Harajuku because it is known for its quirky fashions and popularity with the youth. None of us had any interest in fashion, so we kinda of just walked up the street acknowledging the various shops.
Well, there was one other thing that Harajuku was famous for... crepes!
Actually you can get crepes anywhere, but... It was lunch time! There are not only dessert crepes, like Macha Chocolate Brownie, but also more savory options such as Tuna and Cheese or Teriyaki Chicken. We actually ordered these three, but can you guess who got what? :)
Once we finished walking up the street, we finally saw the main entrance. They are always changing the design, and I think this one is my favorite because it's a dinosaur~
This is the actual Harajuku Station. You can see how crowded it is already, but the station itself is a pretty cool, old-style design. Thankfully, we would not be going into that station. We walked down the street towards our next destination, but the single crepe wasn't a satisfying lunch. All the delicious smells of lunch on the street led me to GinDako, a famous Takoyaki chain. (Takoyaki is fried dough balls with a piece of tako, octopus inside).
You can get a variety of toppings nowadays, but since it was my brother's first time, I stuck with the original - sauce, mayo and bonito flakes. Delicious!
With full bellies, we literally crossed the street and the scenery went from concrete jungle to peaceful forest. Meiji Shrine, settled in the heart of Tokyo's Metropolitan is like another world. A nice, quiet, peaceful, and less crowded world.
Once again, this was another nostalgic trip for me because I had visited the Meiji Shrine with my classmates from University in 2011. I was ready to just chill and enjoy the nature and take pictures... when we were approached by some University students. They were offering to be guides at the shrine so they could practice their English (apparently this is a thing their school club does). I didn't need a guide, but I saw the chance for my brothers to meet and talk with Japanese people their age, so I accepted their offer.
The students were nice, but still a little shy. Often I had to point out different parts of the shrine and suggest they 'guide us' about it. So much for me kicking back, haha. They were very informative, they just needed a little push.
They stayed with us through the main part of the shrine and into the courtyard. My absolute favorite piece is the giant tree that sits just to the right of the shrine stairs. It is surrounded by ema, which are (usually) wooden plaques on which people write their wishes. I had never done so before, nor would I probably have a chance (or reason) to do so again. It seemed like now was the time. My brothers and I all bought a plaque, wrote our messages and hung them around the tree. (I took too long writing mine, so I have no idea what my brothers wrote, or where they put them!!)
It was a nice new experience for an otherwise 'guided' walk down memory lane. Overall, it was a good way to spend lunch and get away from the bustle of the city. (You can probably guess, I'm not a fan of big cities).
From there, we left the peace of the shrine and also the over-populated Harajuku area, and then took the Metro towards Tokyo Tower.
TOKYO TOWER, Kamiyacho Station, Chiyoda & Hibiya Line
Again, we wanted to use our Metro Pass, so we took the Chiyoda Line from Meiji Jingu Mae, and changed to the Hibiya Line at Kasumigaseki. We got off at Kamiyacho and walked towards Tokyo Tower, which was easy to find because it was poking out behind the buildings.
What I did not expect to find that day was some sort of Mario Kart Parade? I couldn't whip my camera out fast enough, but we turned the corner just before Tokyo Tower to see half a dozen people in Go-Karts, decked out like Mario characters, going down the street. Only Tokyo.
Tokyo Tower wasn't as populated as I remembered it, thankfully. I assume that's because people were now visiting the Tokyo Skytree instead. We would have gone up to the observatory, but duiue to motion sickness still lingering with one of our members, we opted out.
Instead we went down the road a little to a park nearby the tower. Despite it being December, fall colors were still prominent on the trees and on the ground.
We took some more pictures and rested our legs a little at the park. To be honest, I needed to adjust my plans. We were ahead of schedule, but we of course hadn't really rested since we left our hotel. Not only that, but my battery was running low from taking so many pictures. I rerouted us to Asakusa, via the Ginza Line and we took refuge in the McDonald's for about an hour.
ASAKUSA - SENSOJI TEMPLE, Asakusa Station, Hibiya & Ginza Line
After chilling at McDonald's with some fries and melon soda we stepped out to visit the Sensoji Temple, most well-known for its large red gates. Again, I had visited this location before in 2011, but this was the first time I saw it at night. I recommend it!! The lighting with the red gates and architecture makes a real impact. I loved taking pictures here.
If you ever have the chance to visit Asakusa, go at night! It's also less crowded~
By the time we left Asakusa it was about 5:30 p.m. We had done everything there was to do on my list, and we all agreed it was a full day - we were tired and getting hungry.
Our next stop would take us just outside of the Tokyo Metro area, so we couldn't use our passes. We took the JR Line down to Keikyu Kamata, and sought out the guesthouse that I had booked for the night.
Tokyo Travel Advice #3, Stay at guesthouses!!
On this trip I had booked our first night at the Best Western Hotel very early on while my plans were still in the works. I figured it would be nice for my brothers to get some real rest after the 13+ hour flight. I don't regret it either, BUT I wish I had also checked the guesthouse for that night. The guesthouse we chose in Kamata was not only closer to the airport, but we could have booked it for two nights and stored our luggage there. Lesson learned.
Most guesthouses are actually really nice, and very affordable. Our room was only 2500 yen per person, and the beds were super comfy. It had three beds altogether, perfect for us!
Guesthouse Kamata is also conveniently located about a 12 minute walk from the station and lots of restaurants! My friend who was living in the area was able to meet us for dinner at Hamazushi. Brothers first conveyor belt sushi - I think they enjoyed it, even though one brother isn't so fond of fish. There's more than just fish! There's also chicken, beef and egg, as well as side dishes and dessert. So, if you don't like fish, you can still enjoy the experience and some cheap food :)
That was all for the first real full-day of the Deluxe Tour. Tomorrow will be another adventure~
December 23rd, Day Two, TOKYO
We woke up well-rested in the comfy hotel beds at about 7 a.m. (I actually didn't sleep so pleasantly, but that's nothing for you to worry about). For breakfast, we decided to stop at the nearby supermarket around the corner, which was a small AEON (store chain). I was pointing out various foods and snacks that my brothers would have to try during their trip, and their logic was, why not now?
What could have been a healthy breakfast was now... a 3 piece onigiri set, chocolate chip melon bread, yukimi daifuku (ice cream wrapped in mochi), yakipurin (similar to a custard), anman (a bun filled with sweet azuki beans), and Gari Gari Kun (a soda flavored popsicle, yes more ice cream). This was shared by my two brothers, while I (who had bowel issues in the morning) opted for the aojiru (green smoothie) mixed with soy milk.
After breakfast, which was quickly dealt with in our room, using a spare chair as a table, we packed up and headed for the station at around 8:30. I knew, based on my super plan, that we would be going ALL-AROUND Tokyo today. It would normally cost a lot to jump on the subway for every commute, but given the distances we would be traveling it was not feasible to walk.
Tokyo Travel Advice #1, Get a rail pass!!
There are 24-, 36- and 72-hour passes available for the Tokyo Metro, the TOEI Line (the other subway), or a combination of both. And 24-hour doesn't mean one day, it means from 9 a.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, so it's actually a really good deal if you time it right! AND a 24-hour pass on the Tokyo Metro is only 600 yen (most trips on the subway range from 170-240 yen, depending on the distance).
Tokyo Travel Advice #2, Luggage Lockers!!
If you're not staying at the same hotel for the duration of your stay, then you want to put your heavy luggage somewhere safe, but also convenient. Depending on the size of the locker, it will cost 300 to 600 yen. Over-sized luggage can also be claimed at the Travel Service Counters located in Tokyo and Shinjuku stations, at 600 yen a piece. You can keep your luggage stored away for up to 3 days in the lockers, but you will have to claim it before closing if you drop it off at a service counter. For the record, the locker price is per day.
Almost all stations have lockers, and any of the bigger stations are usually accommodating for large luggage as well. I also recommend that you plan which station you want to use so that you don't end up making extra trips. It was my first time, so I didn't realize that there was a surplus of lockers. We left ours in Tokyo, but I later realized that Shinjuku (where we would depart from by bus) would have been more convenient.
Now, it's just past 9 a.m. and our sightseeing officially starts with a trip to...
BUNKYO CIVIC CENTER, Korakuen Station, Marunouchi Line
Using our Metro Pass, we hopped on the Marunouchi Line from Tokyo station to Korakuen. It's not a very well known stop, but if you do your research you'll find that the station is right next to the Bunkyo Civic Center. Again, maybe you haven't heard of it. However, it is one of the few locations in Tokyo that has a FREE observation deck. Just take the elevator up to the 52nd floor and get a 270 degree panorama view of the city, including the new SkyTree. On a clear day, and with a very nice zoom lens, you can also see Mt. Fuji to the west between the skyscrapers.
We didn't spend long at the observatory because you can only take so many pictures! There was still much to see... We went down to the basement floor and hopped on the Metro, once again riding the Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro Station.
POKEMON CENTER MEGA, Ikebukuro Station, Marunouchi Line
Ikebukuro - the first place that I had truly visited on my first trip to Japan in 2011. The name brought back many memories for me, but unfortunately we wouldn't be walking down memory lane. I had a particular destination in mind to appease our inner child.
Who doesn't love Pokemon? There are Pokemon Centers located all over Japan, but the one located in Ikebukuro is currently the largest! We had to check it out for ourselves.
From the station you will walk through Sunshine City, which is a nice little area filled with mostly restaurants and shops. Then after you pass under the highway there is a large hotel and department store that looks too expensive to even step inside to. You really want to enter from the eastern side of the building if you want to avoid walking through the hotel lobby. Once you're safe in the world of the common people, take the escalator up to the third floor. You'll know you're in the right area.
Pokeballs line the escalator nearest the store!! I told my brother to look excited, haha.
It was PACKED. The 23rd also happened to be a public holiday, so everyone and their brother decided to come to this store. The line literally wrapped around the store, so I'm sure the cue would have taken over an hour.
It was my first trip to a Pokemon Center in a long time, so I did not know about these adorable new Pikachu designs!!! I wanted them so bad, but did I want to wait in that line? No. I would wait for the next Pokemon Center...
I'm going to take a leap and say that the mascot for the POKEMON CENTER MEGA is Charizard.
Despite all of Tokyo's Pokemon Lovers gathering in the store and making it impossible for us to comfortably browse, it gave us an idea of what to look forward to. As the clock was nearing noon, we left the department store and headed back to the station.
Our next destination would be the well-known Harajuku.
HARAJUKU & MEIJI SHRINE, Meiji Jingu Mae, Fukutoshin Line
From one big crowd to another, that's the city for you. Now, there are a couple lines that will take you from Ikebukuro to the Harajuku area, the most immediate would be the JR Yamanote Line. (If you have a Japan Rail Pass, then you should be taking all the JRs!!) However, we had the Metro Pass, so we took the Fukutoshin Line to Meiji Jingu Mae Station.
Leaving the station, we were still a good ways from Harajuku station but the streets were packed. We actually approached the famous Takeshita Dori from the opposite side. Sometimes I wonder why I brought them to Harajuku because it is known for its quirky fashions and popularity with the youth. None of us had any interest in fashion, so we kinda of just walked up the street acknowledging the various shops.
Well, there was one other thing that Harajuku was famous for... crepes!
Actually you can get crepes anywhere, but... It was lunch time! There are not only dessert crepes, like Macha Chocolate Brownie, but also more savory options such as Tuna and Cheese or Teriyaki Chicken. We actually ordered these three, but can you guess who got what? :)
With full bellies, we literally crossed the street and the scenery went from concrete jungle to peaceful forest. Meiji Shrine, settled in the heart of Tokyo's Metropolitan is like another world. A nice, quiet, peaceful, and less crowded world.
Once again, this was another nostalgic trip for me because I had visited the Meiji Shrine with my classmates from University in 2011. I was ready to just chill and enjoy the nature and take pictures... when we were approached by some University students. They were offering to be guides at the shrine so they could practice their English (apparently this is a thing their school club does). I didn't need a guide, but I saw the chance for my brothers to meet and talk with Japanese people their age, so I accepted their offer.
The students were nice, but still a little shy. Often I had to point out different parts of the shrine and suggest they 'guide us' about it. So much for me kicking back, haha. They were very informative, they just needed a little push.
They stayed with us through the main part of the shrine and into the courtyard. My absolute favorite piece is the giant tree that sits just to the right of the shrine stairs. It is surrounded by ema, which are (usually) wooden plaques on which people write their wishes. I had never done so before, nor would I probably have a chance (or reason) to do so again. It seemed like now was the time. My brothers and I all bought a plaque, wrote our messages and hung them around the tree. (I took too long writing mine, so I have no idea what my brothers wrote, or where they put them!!)
It was a nice new experience for an otherwise 'guided' walk down memory lane. Overall, it was a good way to spend lunch and get away from the bustle of the city. (You can probably guess, I'm not a fan of big cities).
From there, we left the peace of the shrine and also the over-populated Harajuku area, and then took the Metro towards Tokyo Tower.
TOKYO TOWER, Kamiyacho Station, Chiyoda & Hibiya Line
Again, we wanted to use our Metro Pass, so we took the Chiyoda Line from Meiji Jingu Mae, and changed to the Hibiya Line at Kasumigaseki. We got off at Kamiyacho and walked towards Tokyo Tower, which was easy to find because it was poking out behind the buildings.
What I did not expect to find that day was some sort of Mario Kart Parade? I couldn't whip my camera out fast enough, but we turned the corner just before Tokyo Tower to see half a dozen people in Go-Karts, decked out like Mario characters, going down the street. Only Tokyo.
Tokyo Tower wasn't as populated as I remembered it, thankfully. I assume that's because people were now visiting the Tokyo Skytree instead. We would have gone up to the observatory, but duiue to motion sickness still lingering with one of our members, we opted out.
Instead we went down the road a little to a park nearby the tower. Despite it being December, fall colors were still prominent on the trees and on the ground.
From the park, I also managed to take this shot of Tokyo Tower. You rarely see it from this point of view, but there is something really romantic about the red of the tower and the black silhouettes of the trees. Very proud of this picture.
We took some more pictures and rested our legs a little at the park. To be honest, I needed to adjust my plans. We were ahead of schedule, but we of course hadn't really rested since we left our hotel. Not only that, but my battery was running low from taking so many pictures. I rerouted us to Asakusa, via the Ginza Line and we took refuge in the McDonald's for about an hour.
ASAKUSA - SENSOJI TEMPLE, Asakusa Station, Hibiya & Ginza Line
After chilling at McDonald's with some fries and melon soda we stepped out to visit the Sensoji Temple, most well-known for its large red gates. Again, I had visited this location before in 2011, but this was the first time I saw it at night. I recommend it!! The lighting with the red gates and architecture makes a real impact. I loved taking pictures here.
If you ever have the chance to visit Asakusa, go at night! It's also less crowded~
By the time we left Asakusa it was about 5:30 p.m. We had done everything there was to do on my list, and we all agreed it was a full day - we were tired and getting hungry.
Our next stop would take us just outside of the Tokyo Metro area, so we couldn't use our passes. We took the JR Line down to Keikyu Kamata, and sought out the guesthouse that I had booked for the night.
Tokyo Travel Advice #3, Stay at guesthouses!!
On this trip I had booked our first night at the Best Western Hotel very early on while my plans were still in the works. I figured it would be nice for my brothers to get some real rest after the 13+ hour flight. I don't regret it either, BUT I wish I had also checked the guesthouse for that night. The guesthouse we chose in Kamata was not only closer to the airport, but we could have booked it for two nights and stored our luggage there. Lesson learned.
Most guesthouses are actually really nice, and very affordable. Our room was only 2500 yen per person, and the beds were super comfy. It had three beds altogether, perfect for us!
Guesthouse Kamata is also conveniently located about a 12 minute walk from the station and lots of restaurants! My friend who was living in the area was able to meet us for dinner at Hamazushi. Brothers first conveyor belt sushi - I think they enjoyed it, even though one brother isn't so fond of fish. There's more than just fish! There's also chicken, beef and egg, as well as side dishes and dessert. So, if you don't like fish, you can still enjoy the experience and some cheap food :)
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